Jump to content
IGNORED

Retro repair and refurbishment


Ninja Doctor
 Share

Recommended Posts

18 minutes ago, Ninja Doctor said:

I really think your problem is mechanical contact over electrical failure. 
 

double check nothing has moved out of place


I don’t know if it is a mechanical contact issue as I can see the pins that are brushing against the pcb and they look identical to the other side that is working ok. 
 

I’ve tried pushing the lever closer to the pcb  to see if it was a contact issue but it makes no difference. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ohoh!  Found this on another forum:

 

“Found the problem. 

There is a bank of resistors connected in series on each board connected to the lever controls. When the levers are all the way up, it passes 0V, and when you drop it each notch, it completes a circuit and each notch you go down offers increasing resistance values. 

One or more of the resistors in the circuit has failed (open) causing the controller to output 0V no matter what position you place the lever. 

The throttle uses 390 Ohm 0805 surface mount resistors, the brake uses 560 Ohm 0805 surface mount resistors. Each board also has one 100 Ohm 0805 resistor. Size 1206 can also be used, but 0805 is the original component size. 

Check each resistor with a digital multimeter, failed ones will become readily apparent. Replace them with an equivalent value resistor and the controller will be operational again.

Total cost for fully replacing all resistors with new ones: $9.83 (parts plus shipping from DigiKey).  You can replace only the failed ones for mere pennies each, but I would not trust the remaining ones to keep working.

Update: All the resistors were replaced and the controller is now fully functional.”

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Ninja Doctor said:

Is it fixed now?


Not yet no. I’ve not dabbled with anything “surface mountey” so I’m trying to sweet talk a guy round the corner from me who has the skills.  I do have an iron with a pretty fine tip so I may give it a whirl if I get desperate. Though I don’t want to mess it up. 
 

I should probably dig out my multi meter to at least test the resistors. 
 

As soon as I have any kind of update, I’ll drop something in here. Promise. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me if I retrobrite a super Famicom will it take the grey super Famicom lettering / logo on the front off? I dont want it looking like a debadged vauxhall.

 

Also due to lack sunlight I'm thinking of buying a UV bulb. Anyone had any luck with these?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, bplus said:

Can anyone tell me if I retrobrite a super Famicom will it take the grey super Famicom lettering / logo on the front off? I dont want it looking like a debadged vauxhall.

 

 

The Super Famicom lettering will be OK but on mine it ate the writing off and pitted the plastic of the eject button, as well as slightly discolouring the grey plastic top and cart flap. In retrospect I would dissasemble all of the case parts and remove the top grey plastic piece, eject button and cartridge flap leaving only the lighter plastics to go into peroxide - these bits don't normally yellow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, MikeJ said:

 

The Super Famicom lettering will be OK but on mine it ate the writing off and pitted the plastic of the eject button, as well as slightly discolouring the grey plastic top and cart flap. In retrospect I would dissasemble all of the case parts and remove the top grey plastic piece, eject button and cartridge flap leaving only the lighter plastics to go into peroxide - these bits don't normally yellow.

Thanks that's good advice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Well, I've done the most random of things to an NTSC SNES this evening, I have swapped out the power socket for one from a PAL console, so that I could use one of the plethora of PSU's I have for that instead of trying to find / buy / bodge one that fits the US console.

While I was in there, I happened to nudge the American RF unit, saw that it was only held in with 4 soldered pins and though "Huh, I wonder what would happen if I swapped this out for one from a PAL console?" seeing as I had a faulty board that I'd already nicked the PSU socket from laying nearby, I removed them both and swapped them round, and would you believe it, it bloody works!!!

 

I now have a nice, square purple and grey NTSC SNES, that runs full screen, 60Hz through a standard UK RF socket and a UK power supply, who knew eh? :)

 

Video will be up on Youtube tomorrow, have started doing uploads every other day, as one a day was getting a little taxing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Use of this website is subject to our Privacy Policy, Terms of Use, and Guidelines.