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Retro repair and refurbishment


Ninja Doctor
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  • 1 month later...

 

 

Picked up from eBay for £9.94, that's near enough the £10 I'd have paid for a working copy of the game, so buying it faulty seems like a daft idea, but had a reasonable idea that I'd be able to fix it, and, as the video shows, I did.

Total costs were £9.94, plus about 20p for the replacement battery, so near as dammit.

 

And it gave me something to do for 20 minutes that wasn't listing, which has become THE single most boring thing in the world 😛

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  • 4 weeks later...

Picked up 5 faulty 3DS XL's from eBay, is you have just under 3.5 hours, here is some scrappy video of me opening the box, diagnosing the issues and getting them all going.

 

There are no actual edits, just stopped the filming occasionally to go do something, or, in the case of waiting for the batteries etc, several days 😛

 

 

 

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Oh, and then a normal size original 3DS turned up from eBay this morning, once the sun had fucked off this evening, I decided to get to work on it, the cartridge slot wasn't reading games, so here I am sorting that out...

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Some boring mods today. I was hoping to get some Raphnet PCBs, but they got returned to sender for customs declaration reasons. Very annoying.

 

So I soldered some PicoPSU bits and did battery holder and fan mods.

 

IMG_7605.thumb.jpeg.b12e0cda3453ad51af9a66be50665ed1.jpeg

 

Love the heat pipe cooling. Had to flip the board to remove the original fan though!

IMG_7607.thumb.jpeg.cc37e1075675acaa600b04740a6aead6.jpeg

 

ODE next on the list. And some double sided tape for the fan adapter board.

45FEFDE2-8279-4E7A-BEBD-1AA1453C3C83.thumb.jpg.8288703d98d8184f9a1be9f6bab45210.jpg

 

 

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25 minutes ago, Colonel Panic said:

Some boring mods today. I was hoping to get some Raphnet PCBs, but they got returned to sender for customs declaration reasons. Very annoying.

 

So I soldered some PicoPSU bits and did battery holder and fan mods.

 

IMG_7605.thumb.jpeg.b12e0cda3453ad51af9a66be50665ed1.jpeg

 

Love the heat pipe cooling. Had to flip the board to remove the original fan though!

IMG_7607.thumb.jpeg.cc37e1075675acaa600b04740a6aead6.jpeg

 

ODE next on the list. And some double sided tape for the fan adapter board.

45FEFDE2-8279-4E7A-BEBD-1AA1453C3C83.thumb.jpg.8288703d98d8184f9a1be9f6bab45210.jpg

 

 

That a va0 Japanese unit? Check which ode unit you’re getting in that case. Some don’t like the 5v the gd drive bus uses on the va0. 

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Is the Pico worth bothering with? I modded my US DC by swapping in a UK power board and removing some 12v rail components from the board as I used a GDEMU in place of the optical drive.  Swapped in a battery holder and resetable fuse otherwise

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Is anyone's eyesight shit enough to need magnification? On anything 32bit, I'm having real trouble seeing things line up on SMD ICs with not really very find pitch so I want to either get a microscope or eyewear to stop me from making a mess of things.

 

I broke a 1CHIP SNES and upon inspection with a magnifying glass, I bent some pins on the one chip but zooming with a phone isn't going to cut it to push them back into place!

 

IMG_7626.thumb.jpeg.b7100c73f6a1880fdece07ea1d6bd839.jpeg

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A friend recommended one of these. They are a bit uncomfortable at first, but I removed the arms and swapped it for the head strap. Also, you have to set it up right, choosing the right lens for your eyes, and setting the correct distance from your face (as the lens can be moves forward and back), but once it all comes together, it makes doing tiny soldering repairs a lot easier.

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  • 2 weeks later...
9 minutes ago, Hylian said:

Would anyone like to have a go at repairing a bust game gear? Discovered it in my parents loft. Turns on but the screen is shot and a new screen fix looks way beyond my skills. 

It's NOT a fun job, at all! I have done one GG and one Atari Lynx, I'd be up for it if someone more savvy doesn't take you up on the offer, although you'd need to get all the bits as I don't have a screen or any spare caps to hand, used them all up on trying to fix other GG's that were kicking about.

I mean, if you want one that's already done, then I have the one I already done, that I NEVER intend to play on that I'd be more than happy to sell on 😛

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5 hours ago, MikeBeaver said:

It's NOT a fun job, at all! I have done one GG and one Atari Lynx, I'd be up for it if someone more savvy doesn't take you up on the offer, although you'd need to get all the bits as I don't have a screen or any spare caps to hand, used them all up on trying to fix other GG's that were kicking about.

I mean, if you want one that's already done, then I have the one I already done, that I NEVER intend to play on that I'd be more than happy to sell on 😛

Sorry wasn't clear. I don't actually want it and was going to flog for spares on ebay. I'd prefer to sell here though. I have a fairly beat up box, carry case, and a few games too. Just wondered if someone was interested. 

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5 hours ago, Ninja Doctor said:

Yeah I am. What you got with it? 
 

most likely a ‘dead’ screen is just in need of a recap. Unless it has like a vertical third or two thirds not working. If it’s just dim or the contrast is shot it is generally recoverable. 

 

2 hours ago, MikeJ said:

I would also have a crack at the Game Gear if the doctor is out.

Cool. I'll work out roughly what it might be worth on ebay, then come up with something sensible. 

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Screw paying for a Hori GB Player controller, I bought a chip from Raphnet so I could make my own. I know I could've just bought an adapter from them but I like the idea of a self-contained controller.

 

My soldering is pretty poor here as I had a largish chisel tip on my iron and was trying to get this done quickly. Really, I should've put a smaller tip on, but I didn't want to root through my stuff as the baby was asleep in the other room!

 

IMG_7824.thumb.jpeg.471fbbe2eaeb6083f312c24a1b4636fe.jpeg

 

IMG_7825.thumb.jpeg.099e9f8089d111f60c79fbb020da05d7.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone have any experience with testing and replacing surface mounted resistors? 
 

Took a punt on an “untested”  Densha Shinkansen controller for the PS2 (been lusting after once since playing the demo of the game that came with Densha de Go Final). It mostly works except for the accelerator lever doesn’t register anything past notch 1. 
 

Opening it up, the lever has a pcb with a fair few of the surface mounted resistors so I’m assuming one (or a few) are goosed. 
 

 

939E4ECA-B773-45F8-82AC-DE95E6433A6A.jpeg

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Do you have a multimeter?

 

If not, you’re really gonna need one. Probe either side of the resistor and find if any are bad. If so remove with some hot solder and replace. You could probably get away with a thin film resistor replacement if it’s easier as long as it’s the right value. However firstly I would use a tonne of contact cleaner on that rotary switch. 
 

what are the not working symptoms you’ve got?

 

edit: ok read a bit more carefully. It doesn’t sound like a blown resistor problem. I’m thinking dirty or bent contactor. Check to see if anything has moved out of alignment and clean all contact points. Got any IPA?

 

edit 2, if it is a resistor it’s most like R35 or R34 since it won’t go past point 1.  

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I do have a multi. And some IPA (insert lame gag about cleaning it with beer here).  I’ll have more of a thorough look this morning. 
 

I’ve had a look around places like Reddit etc and this does appear to be a fairly common issue though none of the threads have any documented solutions. 

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Ok, have cleaned the contacts (I’ll need to remember where my multim is) and there’s no real change.  Though it did register acceleration at point 2 (out of 14) though not consistently.  Interestingly though, it doesn’t register point 1 of acceleration at notch 1 on the controller. Dunno what that might signify. But I need to check continuity on those resisters really. 

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