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As it's unlikely that I'll have the opportunity for any street photography for a while, here're a few from last month...

 

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At the taxi rank again by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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Blending in by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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Blending in - part deux by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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Past stormy skies by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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White wall by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

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89486357_227897008262823_854549149037534

Soho - March 2020 just before shit got real. 

 

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Couple of days later when people were starting to stay inside but there was nothing official. 

 

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Monday. Shit got real, shops were closing in droves but we were about 8 hours away from a lockdown. 

 

 

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Westminster Abbey locked down.

 

Westminster Abbey, yesterday lunchtime.  I had a three hour layover in London yesterday so I did a loop of the West End. It's very quiet, but more like 7am on a Sunday quiet rather than 28 days later quiet.  

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8 minutes ago, Naysonymous said:

Westminster Abbey locked down.

 

Westminster Abbey, yesterday lunchtime.  I had a three hour layover in London yesterday so I did a loop of the West End. It's very quiet, but more like 7am on a Sunday quiet rather than 28 days later quiet.  

Before the lock down I was planning to cycle into the centre to take photos. I can’t really do that now.

 

Ealing was actually fairly busy today. Lots of people milling around - not as busy as usual - but still pretty busy.

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Yeah, I've been in London a lot this last week. Been getting longer layovers there just because the train timetables have been amended so heavily. I'm trying not to sound ghoulish, but I've taken 300+ photos and while it's been interesting to see but not mind blowing, as anyone who has been in Zone 1 at 6 or 7am in the summer will recognise the empty streets. The Marylebone/Euston road being so quiet was probably the biggest difference. 

 

That said, was in St John's Wood on Wednesday (my work is at Marylebone station so it's nearby) and there were people there who clearly didn't give a shit about the restrictions. Westminster council finally got a chance to repaint the zebra crossing on Abbey Road though as the never ending queue of Beatles fans recreating the photo were nowhere to be seen. 

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Just now, denisb said:

Playing about with a vintage macro lens I picked up 

 

39274F8B-637F-4A8C-919C-6D254821EF88.thumb.jpeg.0b9d3ac537027b5c040fc6f7717ccbb1.jpeg5E8041F1-5979-4E59-A235-6F27A4F6EB25.thumb.jpeg.b0d74eabffcf0aa7dfb71be4676d0798.jpeg

 

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A few taken yesterday in my living room, in a moment of absolute boredom. I used an old curtain as backdrop and roped my girlfriend into being my subject. This was mainly to test out my new Mamiya RZ67 but I'm quite happy with how the tests shots worked out on digital so thought I'd share since I won't be developing the film stuff for a while!

 

Tone

 

Early Morning Stretches

 

Monochrome lady

 

Fragile

 

And a few older ones I finally got around to processing.

 

Fresh Pasta

 

Tea?

 

Full Neon

 

And some Medium Format Film shots. Probably the last I'll take on my old Mamiya 645 before I sell it:

 

interior

 

shady eye from the suspicious dog

 

The way she moves

 

Car Rave

 

 

 

 

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A scan from last year (Ilford FP4):

Riverside

I’m still finding scanning and dealing with scans quite hard. The raw scan looked like this:

49798661263_2c470a3e9c_k_d.jpg

 

It was quite hard to deal with the muddy tones and streaks (once I’d lightened it). I’m not sure if it’s just how it comes out from the scanner or whether I could be doing something to make the process easier.

 

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18 hours ago, Monkeyspill said:

A scan from last year (Ilford FP4):

Riverside

I’m still finding scanning and dealing with scans quite hard. The raw scan looked like this:

49798661263_2c470a3e9c_k_d.jpg

 

It was quite hard to deal with the muddy tones and streaks (once I’d lightened it). I’m not sure if it’s just how it comes out from the scanner or whether I could be doing something to make the process easier.

 

 

Do you tweak the image in the scanner software? I always alter the settings for the image before performing the full scan - usually altering the histogram to maximise the tones in the photo. It makes a big difference.

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Some people in The Hepworth.

 

Minolta SRT 101b, MD Rokkor 50mm f/1.7 & Ilford HP5+ (@800asa).

 

Not sure why some of the images came out a lot grungier than the others.

 

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Gallery shadows by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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Reclining and standing by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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FILM - In front of a nude by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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Three figures in The Hepworth by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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Reading about Rebecca Warren & Barbara Hepworth by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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Ston R by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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I, the sculptor, I am the form, the thrust by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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Orbit by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

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1 hour ago, FishyFish said:

 

Do you tweak the image in the scanner software? I always alter the settings for the image before performing the full scan - usually altering the histogram to maximise the tones in the photo. It makes a big difference.

No. But I probably should!

 

With colour, do you just adjust the RGB as a whole or each colour individually?

 

I also get two vertical steaks on every scan in the same place. It’s virtually unnoticeable on B/W but it can be a bugger on colour (bright purple steaks on a bright blue sky). I can usually edit this out but it’s a hassle.

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10 minutes ago, Monkeyspill said:

No. But I probably should!

 

With colour, do you just adjust the RGB as a whole or each colour individually?

 

I also get two vertical steaks on every scan in the same place. It’s virtually unnoticeable on B/W but it can be a bugger on colour (bright purple steaks on a bright blue sky). I can usually edit this out but it’s a hassle.

 

Which scanning software are you using?

 

I’ve mostly given up on scanning colour negs as I could never get the colours looking right, so I’m probably not much help on that. I did try altering the colour channels in the histogram, but I never made a good job of it - something usually ended up looking wrong. I sometimes re-scan my old negs on the Plustek (the original scans were on my Epson V550 flatbed) and Silverfast seems to make a bit better job of the colours than Epson Scan, but that might just be me.

 

Black and and white is far easier! :)

 

The vertical lines Ines could be dust on the scanner. This YouTube video features it, but there are probably other sources of info on what can be done to resolve it too.

 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, FishyFish said:

 

Which scanning software are you using?

 

I’ve mostly given up on scanning colour negs as I could never get the colours looking right, so I’m probably not much help on that. I did try altering the colour channels in the histogram, but I never made a good job of it - something usually ended up looking wrong. I sometimes re-scan my old negs on the Plustek (the original scans were on my Epson V550 flatbed) and Silverfast seems to make a bit better job of the colours than Epson Scan, but that might just be me.

 

Black and and white is far easier! :)

 

The vertical lines Ines could be dust on the scanner. This YouTube video features it, but there are probably other sources of info on what can be done to resolve it too.

 

 

 

 

I’m using Epson scan.

 

I think it is dust and I’ve thought about opening the whole thing up to clean it but really that might make it worse.

 

I’ll definitely watch the video in the morning but what I’ve been doing is using the Ps select tool to manually select the long colour bands, feathering it, creating a new layer from that selection, then slightly shifting the colours on that layer with hue/saturation. It’s fiddly, hit and miss, and isn’t 100% perfect but I can usually make it far less noticeable. 

 

For colour neg scans, I don’t try to mess with the colour in the Epson software - or even remove the orange mask anymore. I open the scan in Ps and use levels to set the white point with the eye dropper, black point, then play with the neutral grey. It seems to work far better than letting the scanner software do its own thing.

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8 hours ago, Monkeyspill said:

I’m using Epson scan.

 

I think it is dust and I’ve thought about opening the whole thing up to clean it but really that might make it worse.

 

I’ll definitely watch the video in the morning but what I’ve been doing is using the Ps select tool to manually select the long colour bands, feathering it, creating a new layer from that selection, then slightly shifting the colours on that layer with hue/saturation. It’s fiddly, hit and miss, and isn’t 100% perfect but I can usually make it far less noticeable. 

 

For colour neg scans, I don’t try to mess with the colour in the Epson software - or even remove the orange mask anymore. I open the scan in Ps and use levels to set the white point with the eye dropper, black point, then play with the neutral grey. It seems to work far better than letting the scanner software do its own thing.

 

This is how I scan B&W negatives with Epson Scan:

 

Make sure the area is clean - dust, and then damp dust the scanner and surrounding surfaces.
Use a microfibre cloth to clean the scanner glass each time you add a set of negatives to the scanner.
Use a rocket blower to blow off any dust on the negatives and holder before placing on the scanner.

Gloves can be useful, but I never tend to use the pair I have. If you're careful then you should be able to handle the negatives without touching the actual image frames with your fingers.

For the actual scanning process, I do the following on my V550:

1) I have the following settings for B&W negatives:
v550_1.thumb.JPG.d98dfe21f93daf00ecedea1446ca7a5e.JPG

2) I preview the negatives and choose the "Normal" view. I then select each frame with the cursor.
3) I click one of the selected frames and click the Zoom option. I then use the cursor to select an area just inside the image frame:
v550_2.thumb.JPG.1abea912e4aa479d38a2292132d7f738.JPG

4) I click thge leftmost of the adjustment controls (the circle with the two red pointers) to get a starting point and then I then use the histogram control to move the input pointers so they line up with the edges of the histogram itself (I sometimes tweak the middle pointer to add or remove a bit of exposure too), and then set the output pointers to the full 0 to 255 range:
v550_3.thumb.JPG.954afd8d166c3ffd112f9b7af3b58eea.JPG

5) I then close the histogram, re-select the full image (including some of the border area) with the cursor, then click the Full button to return to the preview image. I repeat this for all the frames in the holder and then use the Scan button to make the final .Tif files.
6) I then edit them further in Lightroom based on my preferences for the image.

 

 

As for removing the lines from your scans in PS: Have you tried the Content Aware Fill option? That tends to do a really nice job a lot of the time and is probably much quicker. Depending on the image and where the line appears, you might have to do it in smaller sections rather than a single attempt, but it's still pretty efficient.

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That’s really helpful - thanks. 

 

Do you let the Epson software apply its own unsharp mask? I’ve been turning that off.

 

I have used content aware fill a few times to remove steaks but depends on what part of the image - mainly I use it to remove dust.

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23 minutes ago, Monkeyspill said:

That’s really helpful - thanks. 

 

Do you let the Epson software apply its own unsharp mask? I’ve been turning that off.

 

I have used content aware fill a few times to remove steaks but depends on what part of the image - mainly I use it to remove dust.

 

Yeah, I use the Epson unsharp mask. I've never had any issues with it and it saves me a job later. I know a lot of people like to apply sharpening in PS or wherever though, so it's down to preference as to whether you tick that box or not.

 

I mostly use the spot-heal tool for dust (either in Lightroom, or in the Camera Raw filter in PS).

 

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