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The Rllmuk Photography Thread

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On 26/01/2019 at 13:02, HarryBizzle said:

All shot while in the Medina de Marrakech yesterday. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Get much grief? When I was out there I got shouted at and all sorts... they fucking hate photographers.... I ended up finding a side alley, standing in it and photographing people as they walked past... or used my lcd and shot without holding the camera up....

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2 minutes ago, PopeSmokesDope said:

 

Get much grief? When I was out there I got shouted at and all sorts... they fucking hate photographers.... I ended up finding a side alley, standing in it and photographing people as they walked past... or used my lcd and shot without holding the camera up....

 

I don’t think people like having their photos taken. The Medina is particularly bad in that nothing is free. Apparently you should ask permission and offer some money if you want to take someone’s photo. Didn’t have any issues taking photos of shops, though. 

 

The Medina itself is interesting but I found it very stressful. Constant heckling and sales pitches. 

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My fleaBayed Fuji XF 90mm F2 (135mm equivalent) arrived this morning. Took a picture of a bird out the front window, christ almighty this lens!

 

100% crop.

 

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Plymouth aquarium

 

I went to the aquarium yesterday in Plymouth. It was really difficult to get any decent shots due to a combination of poor light, moving subjects and the fact that my autofocus kept on focusing on the tanks' glass as opposed to what were actually in the tanks. This was the only half decent one, but the high ISO and JPEG compression has led to quite a lot of artifacts that I'm not happy with.

 

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4 hours ago, Jamie John said:

I went to the aquarium yesterday in Plymouth. It was really difficult to get any decent shots due to a combination of poor light, moving subjects and the fact that my autofocus kept on focusing on the tanks' glass as opposed to what were actually in the tanks. This was the only half decent one, but the high ISO and JPEG compression has led to quite a lot of artifacts that I'm not happy with.

 

 

I had a similar experience when visiting the London Aquarium last year. In the end I converted a couple I liked into arty-farty black and white versions as I thought they looked better that way.

 

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Out there somewhere by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

 

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Beyond the cosmos by fishyfish_arcade, on Flickr

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And a trip to london with my lad to help him do his photography homework.

 

This is my work.

 

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London icons by julian bowdidge, on Flickr

 

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Obsidian surfer by julian bowdidge, on Flickr

 

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London 2019 full by julian bowdidge, on Flickr

 

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OXO tower London by julian bowdidge, on Flickr

 

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Shiny metal money by julian bowdidge, on Flickr

 

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Thrusting Tate spire by julian bowdidge, on Flickr

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Finally managed to get out with the camera and get a decent set of shots again - made it to the mountains for some good hikes the previous two Saturdays.

 

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From summer to winter...

 

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From summer to winter...

 

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From summer to winter...

 

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From summer to winter...

 

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From summer to winter...

 

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From summer to winter...

 

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From summer to winter...

 

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From summer to winter...

 

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On 27/01/2019 at 01:34, Naysonymous said:

 

 

Sky Garden a couple of days ago, when it was absolutely pissing it down.  Surprised how well it turned out considering the light was so crap.  Handheld 100mm APS-C, ten minutes before sunset, through a window. Horizontal rain probably helps mask a bit of the noise in the photo I guess. 

 

 

How  did you get on up there? Just booked myself and a mate in for 2 weeks time... 

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It was pretty good. I'd been up before too. I think the main things you need to know is that you have to queue to get in, it can be 15-20 minutes if it's busy (ie sunset) and they have airport style x-rays, you have to put your bag through the scanner and walk through a metal detector. You can take a tripod in but they won't let you use it. They don't appear to give a shit about Gorillapod style things or light modifiers.  There is a balcony overlooking the river, you can see south, east and west from there. There are east and west facing windows too so you get good views of Tower Bridge, Canary Wharf and St Paul's. You can see Wembley stadium on a clear day. The view north is crap as all the lines of sight are obscured by the Gherkin. You can get a beer and some food up there if you want. 

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Hi, some advice please!

 

My partner uses an S7 Edge and does snapshot photography. She's good at it, and wants to start taking things further with a course and possibly a DSLR of some sort. Her big interest is in macro/close-up photography (mainly nature, but also product photographs for her fabric-based creative business).

 

I am mindful that the best camera is the one you have with you, and she did experiment a bit with my old 400d, and I think the general bulk (and slightly archaic OS) put her off. If we were to give this another go, what would be a recommended set up for macro, with a more modern camera, possibly which might have an OS with some similarity to Android (she's not especially technically minded). Maybe something quite compact (though I appreciate a macro lens by design has to have some heft to it). The resulting pictures would need to be high enough quality to be printed onto canvas, and probably, with work, outstrip the fidelity of the S7. 

 

Anything spring to mind? 

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10 hours ago, cavalcade said:

Hi, some advice please!

 

My partner uses an S7 Edge and does snapshot photography. She's good at it, and wants to start taking things further with a course and possibly a DSLR of some sort. Her big interest is in macro/close-up photography (mainly nature, but also product photographs for her fabric-based creative business).

 

I am mindful that the best camera is the one you have with you, and she did experiment a bit with my old 400d, and I think the general bulk (and slightly archaic OS) put her off. If we were to give this another go, what would be a recommended set up for macro, with a more modern camera, possibly which might have an OS with some similarity to Android (she's not especially technically minded). Maybe something quite compact (though I appreciate a macro lens by design has to have some heft to it). The resulting pictures would need to be high enough quality to be printed onto canvas, and probably, with work, outstrip the fidelity of the S7. 

 

Anything spring to mind? 

 

I guess it depends on budget, but the cheapest method is probably an entry-level DSLR with a kit lens and a set of extension tubes to allow full 1:1 (or greater) macro shots - especially if you buy used gear. You can also buy a reversal ring for less than £20 that allows a lens to be mounted backwards to give high-magnification macro images. Otherwise you would need a dedicated macro lens, which can vary in price (make sure it's a proper macro lens that does 1:1 reproduction - some cheaper lenses claim to be macro, but are just closer focussing than normal). If buying a dedicated macro lens to be used for nature e.g. insects, consider a longer focal length (e.g. 105mm and upwards), as you don't have to get quite as close to the subject, so reduce the chance of spooking them. If for flowers and other inanimate subjects then it's not so much an issue as they're unlikely to fly away. :)

 

It might also be worth looking at bridge cameras, some of which have very good macro abilities, although you lose some of the flexibility of an interchangeable lens system camera.

 

Most interchangeable lens mirrorless cameras allow you to adapt old lenses (as well as having their own contemporary lenses), so these might be worth considering if pairing it up with an adapter and an older maro lens.

 

 

 

 

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Helpful thanks.... I have been looking at Bridge cameras.... Any you'd recommend? Would you see a radically improved performance over a decent phone camera (in say the 600-800 quid bracket) or would you have to spend a lot more?

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56 minutes ago, cavalcade said:

Helpful thanks.... I have been looking at Bridge cameras.... Any you'd recommend? Would you see a radically improved performance over a decent phone camera (in say the 600-800 quid bracket) or would you have to spend a lot more?

 

None that I can recommend (only because I don't have the knowledge of which are best). Bridge cameras can provide large zooms because of their small sensor size, but smaller sensors result in lower overall image quality and low light performance (that's not to say they'll look bad though). While the sensor in a bridge camera will still be larger than that in a phone, you'll get better image quality from a larger sensor camera. Within that budget you'd be looking at a micro-four-thirds or APS-C based camera.

 

You could get a Nikon D5500 and a Sigma 105mm f/2.8 OS HSM macro lens new for the budget you have, or pay even less (or get a better featured camera body) if you're willing to buy used. To be honest though there are multiple different options available from a variety of manufacturers, so I'd advise doing your research and try to go into shops where you can handle the cameras in person to see what feels right.

 

It's also worth looking at the Talk Photography forums - you'll get loads of help and advice there as it's a dedicated photography forum.

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Went up to the Lake District for a couple of days this week. Unfortunately, a combination of poor light and having to lug round an infant meant that I didn't have as many opportunities for photos as I'd have liked, but still, it was nice to get out and about with the camera.

 

Comments and advice welcome. With pretty much all of these I've taken the exposure down in order to get some detail from the sky and clouds, but doing so means that I inevitably lose detail and exposure for stuff on land and in the foreground. Is there a way around this, either in camera or in PP?

 

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Are you shooting wide open?  I might be imagining it but the hills look a bit soft in all of those images so it appears you've got a small depth of field going on, and a lot of light hitting your sensor. You should be able to recover shadows pretty well from the RAW files,  or you could bracket your images.  I guess if it's still to bright then ND filter on the front of your camera is the way to go.  I know a lot of serious landscape photographers pretty much always use them. 

 

Went for a walk around Brum today just looking at architecture, lots of harsh winter sun so I busted out the telephoto lens and shot at high shutter speeds and it appears to have been pretty sharp.  Haven't got to a PC yet so these are just JPEGs.  Fuji JPEG stuff is a real pleasure though, they give lots of ways to noodle about with the images.  

 

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This is the metal roof of New Street station,  an old 70s office block and The Rotunda. 

 

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And now standing under the roof of New Street looking towards the BT Tower. 

 

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Weird metal car park. It's all red but the difference between the sun and the shade was huge. 

 

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This was a few days ago, the sun coming up over Edgbaston Reservoir in Brum. 

 

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This is more of bit of nerdy shit as opposed to a photo I want to show off, but I realised that the shop Dexys Midnight Runners dance in front of in the video to Come On Eileen is still in business and it's actually in zone 1 of London.   Just round the corner from Elephant and Castle if you head in the direction of Waterloo. 

 

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And I went up to Berwick on Tweed with the missus for a couple of days last week.  Had to stop at the Angel of the North on the way up.  It's really really big. 

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@Naysonymous

 

Most of them I've taken at f/16 or higher. Some of them are quite a tight crop, however, which might explain the softness, or possibly it's just the JPEG compression.

 

I'll look into getting an ND filter. Looking on Amazon, prices seem to vary a lot. Are they all much of a muchness?

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I'm not sure. There are loads of YouTube videos comparing filters across the price range and all I got out of watching them is that the mid range Jessops one would probably be fine for my purposes. I'm sure a nicer one is worth the outlay if most of your photos are taken on a tripod with a filter, or if you live in a country which isn't completely covered by cloud for 250 days every year but I can't see much of a reason to spunk megabucks on one if you are just trying them out.  

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2 hours ago, Jamie John said:

@Naysonymous

 

Most of them I've taken at f/16 or higher. Some of them are quite a tight crop, however, which might explain the softness, or possibly it's just the JPEG compression.

 

I'll look into getting an ND filter. Looking on Amazon, prices seem to vary a lot. Are they all much of a muchness?

 

That will be why... your f stop controls the aperture, which control the depth of field. Increased depth of field does NOT means its sharp front to back, just that it's in focus. Typically the more you stop down past say f/13 (lens dependent) the softer your image gets.

 

Filters you tend to get what you pay for.  I'd just bracket your shots in the meantime and merge them in Lightroom. You'll get 10 stops of adjustment in Lightroom  to play with.

 

With shots 1,2 and 3 it looks like you had some really nice light to play with!

 

I take it you were using a tripod?

 

Off up the sky garden and it turns out another rooftop opened this week next door... no tickets or anything needed and its the whole roof, so going to check that out as well!

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Cheers both.

 

@PopeSmokesDope - when I said f/16 or higher, I meant all the landscape shots were taken between f/16 and f/22. And I wasn't using a tripod, no, as when I took most of them I literally had a baby strapped to my chest! Not ideal conditions. I'll look into getting a filter, though, and try bracketing as I've not done that before.

 

Did you use a filter for this one, or is it all Lightroom?

 

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Yes,3 stop nd grad.

 

Sorry,stop down means going higher with f stops (its arse about face) so yeah I wouldn't ever push past f/13 with my lenses unless I needed to limit the amount of light getting through. You'll need a tripod or something to put the camera on if bracketing (basically take 3 shots, 1 under exposed, 1 spot on and 1 over exposed)

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On 24/02/2019 at 00:20, Jamie John said:

Comments and advice welcome. With pretty much all of these I've taken the exposure down in order to get some detail from the sky and clouds, but doing so means that I inevitably lose detail and exposure for stuff on land and in the foreground. Is there a way around this, either in camera or in PP?

 

Highlight and/or shadow sliders in post, the gradient tools if you want to apply an effect selectively.

 

In your instance I'd probably start by bumping the exposure up a little bit to brighten up the ground, then crank the highlights down to get detail back in the sky and see how that looks.

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