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Xbox One Console Thread


mushashi

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None of this means the console needs to shut down the app actually.

Any need for this condescending nonsense? If it's hardly rocket science then why hasn't MS addressed the issue? Why don't you sort it for them if it's so easy.

I meant it's not rocket science to understand that if a service is being DDOS'd then any app using said service isn't going to work.

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I meant it's not rocket science to understand that if a service is being DDOS'd then any app using said service isn't going to work.

Joe Public & Sally Housewife won't know that though. And what if they are DDOS'd every day, should their customers just accept it?

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I meant it's not rocket science to understand that if a service is being DDOS'd then any app using said service isn't going to work.

I had no idea there was any kind of attack tbh, i had just sat down after a days work to watch a bluray and thought my Xbox was broken, even hard reset console twice. Googled error code and came up short as to why my Xbox wouldnt let me play a bluray until i tried going into offline mode.

My mate had told me on a text after I had told him about the trouble I had there was DDoS attack.

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Joe Public & Sally Housewife won't know that though.

True. Better error messages would be good. If you go into network settings it tells you what services are screwed. But you should ideally get that message when the app isn't working.

And what if they are DDOS'd every day, should their customers just accept it?

I'm afraid they HAVE to accept it as there isn't really much you can do when being DDSO'd.

It happens to Sony, it happens to Microsoft. You're going to have your service attacked wherever you go. For DDOS attacks it would be best to stick with the service that comes back up quickest or the one that doesn't completely go down.

Or stuck with Nintendo since they don't seem to be worth attacking.

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True. Better error messages would be good. If you go into network settings it tells you what services are screwed. But you should ideally get that message when the app isn't working.

I'm afraid they HAVE to accept it as there isn't really much you can do when being DDSO'd.

It happens to Sony, it happens to Microsoft. You're going to have your service attacked wherever you go. For DDOS attacks it would be best to stick with the service that comes back up quickest or the one that doesn't completely go down.

Or stuck with Nintendo since they don't seem to be worth attacking.

You surely know you're being overly defensive? Sure, there's nothing MS can do to prevent the fact that people want to DDOS them. And, beyond a certain level of investment, it does become impossible to prevent an overwhelming DDOS attack. But not everything needs to be designed to require Live authentication every time someone tries to use it. Why does a Blu-Ray? Why does a non-MS video streaming app? Etc. These are design decisions people made, not inherent technology issues.

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I'll try asking the question I asked before which some how I made a mess off.

I'm plugging headphones that definitely work into the xbox pad but am getting a lot of static noise from them. Do I have a faulty pad or is it a know problem I can fix.

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I'll try asking the question I asked before which some how I made a mess off.

I'm plugging headphones that definitely work into the xbox pad but am getting a lot of static noise from them. Do I have a faulty pad or is it a know problem I can fix.

Have you updated the pad via the console? There have been a couple of updates for the pads, during 2015.

Sign in to Xbox Live on your Xbox One console and install the latest system update if prompted to do so.

If you have a Stereo Headset Adaptor, plug it in to the bottom of your controller so it can also get updates.

If you're using a Stereo Headset Adaptor, plug in a headset (a headset must be plugged in so the adaptor will turn on).

Press the Menu button.

Select Settings.

Select Devices & accessories.

Select the controller that you want to update.

Select Update, and then select Continue.

When the update has been completed, you can update additional controllers. If they can only be updated via USB, see Update via USB. Otherwise, select the Update another button on the screen after the first update is complete, and then follow the steps.

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How the fuck have I managed to clock up 5183 hours? Does the fact that it's pretty much on constantly for TV, Plex, iPlayer, YouTube as well as the games I play all count towards that total?

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