Rllmuk racing wheel thread

[MagicalDrop]

30 minutes ago, Junker said:

I’m pretty sure the answer is yes, but not having owned one and tried I can’t be certain. Have you asked Logitech themselves? 

 

I haven't. Was hoping for a quick response in here.

[Erik]

8 hours ago, Junker said:

@Erik “hello Bentley!”  What settings do you use on T300 for ACC? I find the FFB a bit light compared to GT7 ( and in game settings I have it quite low on that game) but I get clipping in ACC if I have the gain up too high. 
 I just don’t quite get the same feeling of bite on the brakes and weight transfer on turn in, so I’m struggling to trail brake etc

 

Heres what I use. In ACC force feedback changes quite a bit car to car. Car setup also has big effect. Road Effects should actually be 0 % but I had forgotten about it. I had driven McLaren before and that has so little feedback that road effects was my attempt to find more. I find Bentley to be quite numb feedback at low speeds but its far from worst. Heres the car setup I used in Imola race: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B1-JvqoUyzzpLhTgleDTGfU244K4drfH/view?usp=share_link

 

 

 

[milko]

@Erik I though the prevailing wisdom is to set the "Overall strength" in the driver to 100% and reduce Gain in ACC to the point you're happy with. Not saying you're wrong, just interesting.

[Erik]

12 minutes ago, milko said:

@Erik I though the prevailing wisdom is to set the "Overall strength" in the driver to 100% and reduce Gain in ACC to the point you're happy with. Not saying you're wrong, just interesting.

 

Yeah probably is but this way I can have it not clip or clip less in other games too without having to set a different profile for each.

 

edit: Im not sure if it even matters if its 70 and 70 or 100 % and 50 %

[milko]

ah fair enough. I should probably think of some other games sometime!

[Corranga]

On 19/02/2023 at 20:59, milko said:

Installed my 'budget button box' control onto the rig. Mounting isn't ideal due to the nature of my frame being quite narrow, I've just stuck it on with self-adhesive velcro for now which is secure but has a bit of wobble when pressed. Configuring the keys is a little bit clunky (homebrew-looking Windows app) but that's only needed once really. Pretty sweet for the price! (£20)

 

Edit - judicious use of a couple of daisy-chained cable ties has solved the wobble!

 

This photo makes it look lower than it feels, it's just to the side of the wheelbase buttons. 

 

 

This looks great, I might have to make my peace with the seller!

[milko]

1 hour ago, Corranga said:

 

This looks great, I might have to make my peace with the seller!

 

It's...alright. Gimme a bit more testing time, I'm not 100% sure it's not occasionally misfiring a key as C (the default before you program it). And it's definitely not ideal for VR, makes me contemplate removing some of the keycaps to space out the buttons I'm using. I'll let you know!

[Danster]

Got my T150 out and bought a new stand for it for some PSVR2 GT7 fun, but am finding I'm really crap! 

 

Any advice for settings etc? I seem to regularly be putting the back end out and losing it, over correcting and hitting a wall or sliding off track.

 

[Junker]

21 hours ago, Danster said:

Got my T150 out and bought a new stand for it for some PSVR2 GT7 fun, but am finding I'm really crap! 

 

Any advice for settings etc? I seem to regularly be putting the back end out and losing it, over correcting and hitting a wall or sliding off track.

 

Any particular car or anything? On the way in or or on corner exit?

[Danster]

19 minutes ago, Junker said:

Any particular car or anything? On the way in or or on corner exit?

 

I spent a good few hours on it last night and am slowly getting to grips with it I think. I got frustrated and posted that last message after failing again at one of the challenges (around Goodwood in an old Porsche) that I'd completed relatively easily on pad. I'd also tried one of the Alsace races, using the 205 GTi rally car and really struggled with that too.

 

I changed tack and headed for a more modern car and immediately noticed the difference. Quite remarkably so. I have a souped up Skyline and tried using that on the Alsace track and immediately felt the difference, with a more solid connection to the road.

 

Then using a GR3 around the current time trial was like night and day. And while I still find it very hard to correct an oversteer I am getting to grips with racing with a wheel again.

 

Perhaps I was a little hasty in looking to blame something other than me having to learn to drive again!

 

Having said that, any tips are always welcome! I think my brake control on pad has always been all or nothing, with pedals I can be much more nuanced - like you would driving a real car. I've also found braking earlier helped a lot*, braking before turning is something I would automatically do in a real car, but I think I've gotten into bad habits using a pad and need to be more aware of my grip when using a wheel.

 

*Helped keeping it on the road, not so much with my times.

 

 

[Junker]

@Danster might be worth heading over to the GT7 thread for more specific game advice. Things like using full ABS is the way to go on Gran Turismo, so if you’re losing it under braking it might be that? Nothing wrong with the T150 though. 
 On pad the game does a lot for you, on wheel it can be trickier until you get a feel for it and will probably take a bit of time to actually start matching or bettering your performance on a pad.

[milko]

On 03/03/2023 at 17:27, Corranga said:

 

This looks great, I might have to make my peace with the seller!

 

On 03/03/2023 at 18:33, milko said:

 

It's...alright. Gimme a bit more testing time, I'm not 100% sure it's not occasionally misfiring a key as C (the default before you program it). And it's definitely not ideal for VR, makes me contemplate removing some of the keycaps to space out the buttons I'm using. I'll let you know!

 

OK. what it is, is when you first switch it on, seems you have to press the little tiny black button on the bottom (at least, the bottom as I have it mounted) to put it in the right mode. I'm sure I sometimes don't need to bother, but anyway, that seems to sort it. 

[Junker]

Anyone have any experience of the 3d printed QR rings they sell on eBay and Etsy for Thrustmaster Wheel bases? 
 I cringe every time I swap the wheel on mine and have to screw in that self tapping screw 

[davejm]

3 minutes ago, Junker said:

Anyone have any experience of the 3d printed QR rings they sell on eBay and Etsy for Thrustmaster Wheel bases? 
 I cringe every time I swap the wheel on mine and have to screw in that self tapping screw 

 

Yep, I used one for my TS-PC and it worked really well.  @milko has the wheel now so can also comment 👍

[Junker]

48 minutes ago, davejm said:

 

Yep, I used one for my TS-PC and it worked really well.  @milko has the wheel now so can also comment 👍

Ah cool, thanks!!

[milko]

Oh I had no idea! Actually it's been working loose a little bit in the past week, been meaning to look at it and work out why. 

[Junker]

On 11/03/2023 at 15:47, Junker said:

Anyone have any experience of the 3d printed QR rings they sell on eBay and Etsy for Thrustmaster Wheel bases? 
 I cringe every time I swap the wheel on mine and have to screw in that self tapping screw 

Well I got one and it makes no difference. Wheel still works loose. I’m assuming it’s only benefit is to help tighten up the collar a bit more that you can without it? Or am I missing something?

[b00dles]

I've had a quick look over the last pages but couldn't find anything so excuse if it was answered further back but my T300's pedals aren't working on GT7 even though I've done the firmware upgrade via my pc.

 

The wheel works, it is recognised by GT7 (the controls for the wheel come up in game etc) but the pedals just aren't having it. 

 

I did some googling but it seems a bit all over the place in regards to what the issue is or what the solution is. Anyone had (and subsequently fixed) this?

Many thanks

[Junker]

6 hours ago, b00dles said:

I've had a quick look over the last pages but couldn't find anything so excuse if it was answered further back but my T300's pedals aren't working on GT7 even though I've done the firmware upgrade via my pc.

 

The wheel works, it is recognised by GT7 (the controls for the wheel come up in game etc) but the pedals just aren't having it. 

 

I did some googling but it seems a bit all over the place in regards to what the issue is or what the solution is. Anyone had (and subsequently fixed) this?

Many thanks

Which pedals out of interest? I’d try fiddling with the cable first as they’re the cheapest and easiest to replace. 

[b00dles]

14 hours ago, Junker said:

Which pedals out of interest? I’d try fiddling with the cable first as they’re the cheapest and easiest to replace. 

It's the two pedal version, here's a shitty quick pic. 

 

I'm fairly sure the cable is an RJ11 of all things (like for old school house phone headsets) but I'll blow on things/ wiggle the connection about too just in case. It works and registers in windows though, in the thrustmaster diagnostic tool thing, so the actual connection itself must be alright. Just the ps5 doesn't see them. 

 

Thanks for any help though!

[Parappa]

Can anyone which a wheel confirm that there is rumble when going over the rumble strips in GT7 - if so what wheel do you have? Thanks. 

[Shimmyhill]

4 hours ago, Parappa said:

Can anyone which a wheel confirm that there is rumble when going over the rumble strips in GT7 - if so what wheel do you have? Thanks. 

 

There is but not much, FFB in GT7 is pretty weak - rumble strips especially and its pointed out that the Logitech fancy extra thing actually gives rumble on rumble strips suggesting its not in the FFB itself but audio 

 

Fanatec DD pro with 8nm psu here

[LaveDisco]

The only thing putting me off a wheel is can’t imagine affording one good enough to match the incredible haptics in GT7. They fundamentally change how I understand what’s happening. It’s the first time I’ve got my head around a sim racer. When the car will spin out etc. 

[Parappa]

1 hour ago, Shimmyhill said:

 

There is but not much, FFB in GT7 is pretty weak - rumble strips especially and its pointed out that the Logitech fancy extra thing actually gives rumble on rumble strips suggesting its not in the FFB itself but audio 

 

Fanatec DD pro with 8nm psu here

Suspected as much. That's a real shame although I have read that perhaps some curbs do rumble but others don't as they are smooth . Will have to play around but I miss that feedback on the T300

[Shimmyhill]

47 minutes ago, LaveDisco said:

The only thing putting me off a wheel is can’t imagine affording one good enough to match the incredible haptics in GT7. They fundamentally change how I understand what’s happening. It’s the first time I’ve got my head around a sim racer. When the car will spin out etc. 

 

Im not sure there is a wheel out there with FFB that isnt leagues ahead of the pad - spending more and more money is the ultimate game of diminishing returns.

[Junker]

@b00dles have you sorted it? The only other thing to try might be the mode switch (pc/ps4) or if you’ve accidentally swapped the pedal order ( for inverted the pedals) 

[b00dles]

8 hours ago, Junker said:

@b00dles have you sorted it? The only other thing to try might be the mode switch (pc/ps4) or if you’ve accidentally swapped the pedal order ( for inverted the pedals) 

Boom!

For some odd reason it had to be in ps4 mode and I'd had it in what I thought was ps5 mode.  Orange light is apparently the way forward!

 

Thanks a lot, that was beginning to wind me up

[spatular]

On 15/02/2023 at 19:59, spatular said:

feels like a bit of an odd jolt in the forcefeedback, which i think is being caused by really small movement in the quick release (because the centre position seems to change slightly when it happens).

Eventually got round to contacting fanatec support about this, theyve said its normal and wont help sort it out (im going to moan about this and hope they change their mind - (edit - they did agree to send a new qr1 lite so fingers crossed that one is ok) ). I googled it a bit and it seems like a common problem that they have provided people with replacement quick release parts to fix this in the past. Seems like its a bit pot luck, for some people this fixes it and for others it doesnt. Also some people put electric tape on the quick release shaft apparently can help fix it. It seems like you cant even buy qr lite separately to try and get one that works ok.

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/Fanatec/comments/s31toa/fixed_qr1_lite_click_sound/

 

so i tried the original wheel it came with and that works fine, also on a qr lite. 

 

i think you can tell how good a company is by the customer support so ill be reluctant to buy stuff from fanatec in the future. Although maybe ill have to get a qr2 to solve this problem.

[PaB]

I see the Logitech g920 is on sale at Amazon for £179.99. Is it worth the upgrade over a t150? ( is it even an upgrade)

[Corranga]

48 minutes ago, PaB said:

I see the Logitech g920 is on sale at Amazon for £179.99. Is it worth the upgrade over a t150? ( is it even an upgrade)

 

Just in case you are a console gamer... Isn't a T150 a Playstation wheel, and a G920 an Xbox wheel?  (they both do PC of course)

The G29 is Playstation version of the G920.

The G923 is the newer / replacement of those above, adding basically just a small transducer for different / better vibration.  The G923 comes in 2 varieties, Playstation and Xbox - none of them can do both consoles.

 

I'm certainly not an expert with these, but I always thought the T150 to be the Thrustmaster equivalent of the G29/920/923 - I'd say they are the same level, not an upgrade.

I'm sure there are pros and cons of both.