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Rllmuk racing wheel thread

TommyG

By TommyG,
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Shimmyhill

Shimmyhill

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, mexos said:

I did!

 

 

I just had another quick go - id say dont bother with the yellow spring, too much travel(:o) and far too soft, im fully compressing the spring far too easily with not a huge amount of pressure needed.

 

More experiments needed with blue spring…

 

On a more pressing note I need to properly setup my rig after watching a ‘best position’ setup video - ive known it was wrong for a while but its properly wrong so tools out but more likely upgrade time ;) 

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Varnsen

Varnsen

Posted
Posted

sigh.

 

so despite re-tightening my quick release on my DD Pro I'm still getting disconnects as basically the silver quick release works it's way loose from the wheelbase quicker and quicker. 


I just went onto my Fanatec support page through my account and they have an FAQ/acknowledgement of the issue there:

 

"It has come to our attention that the clamp that secures the base-side quick release to the motor shaft in some CSL DD and Gran Turismo DD Pro units was not tightened enough during final assembly, and this can cause the base-side quick release to move slightly over time, and eventually lose connection (with the internal USB-C socket)."

 

They then linked to this youtube video:

 

This is exactly what's been happening to me. 

 

Now, I'm not a proper adultman so I had to look up what it means to tighten something to 15nm. I have to go to a hardware store and buy a torque wrench apparently and tighten it up to that which sounds intense. 

I'm not convinced this will work as what I've noticed is that the quick release only fits into the wheel base in one orientation despite the design of the parts suggesting that it shouldn't matter. This makes me think that the connection ring in the wheelbase itself isn't evenly machined and so this causes it to wiggle slightly and work it's way loose. 

 

I'm gonna try and tighten it up to 15nm and see if that helps otherwise, it's off back to Fanatec for god knows how long. Lucky I didn't sell the G29 just yet cos I'm so disorganised. 

 

Sorry for the long post but thought I'd share my experiences and information for other DD Pro owners out on the forum. 

 

Obligatory sad face

😩

 

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Shimmyhill

Shimmyhill

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Varnsen said:

sigh.

 

so despite re-tightening my quick release on my DD Pro I'm still getting disconnects as basically the silver quick release works it's way loose from the wheelbase quicker and quicker. 


I just went onto my Fanatec support page through my account and they have an FAQ/acknowledgement of the issue there:

 

"It has come to our attention that the clamp that secures the base-side quick release to the motor shaft in some CSL DD and Gran Turismo DD Pro units was not tightened enough during final assembly, and this can cause the base-side quick release to move slightly over time, and eventually lose connection (with the internal USB-C socket)."

 

They then linked to this youtube video:

 

This is exactly what's been happening to me. 

 

Now, I'm not a proper adultman so I had to look up what it means to tighten something to 15nm. I have to go to a hardware store and buy a torque wrench apparently and tighten it up to that which sounds intense. 

I'm not convinced this will work as what I've noticed is that the quick release only fits into the wheel base in one orientation despite the design of the parts suggesting that it shouldn't matter. This makes me think that the connection ring in the wheelbase itself isn't evenly machined and so this causes it to wiggle slightly and work it's way loose. 

 

I'm gonna try and tighten it up to 15nm and see if that helps otherwise, it's off back to Fanatec for god knows how long. Lucky I didn't sell the G29 just yet cos I'm so disorganised. 

 

Sorry for the long post but thought I'd share my experiences and information for other DD Pro owners out on the forum. 

 

Obligatory sad face

😩

 

 

I have torque wrenches so if you’re anywhere in Norfolk…

 

Ive read loads on this and the most important part is locating the collar as if its not exactly as in the photo above you can torque it all you want but it will happen again :( I will check the torque on mine and try and describe how tight it is to give you an idea….

 

Ive also read that some electrical tape can be the solution so worth having a dig about for that ‘fix’

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Shimmyhill

Shimmyhill

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, Varnsen said:

Maybe PM some of the places you've been reading stuff Shimmy if you don't mind? I'll search for the black tape fix but yeah...I've read somewhere that SimRacing Garage flagged this as a potential design flaw in the DD range. Annoying.

 

I think i have a couple of issues missed up - tape for noisy QR connection from wheel and thread lock for the bolt not clamping looking back - https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/24818/csl-dd-disconnecting-mid-game

 

However there are plenty of people saying that it could be interference as the wheel is wireless to the base - when yours loses connection does the shaft (ooo err) come loose? Does a power cycle bring it back? If so could be more like this -  https://www.reddit.com/r/Fanatec/comments/rsmuls/csl_dd_keeps_disconnecting/

 

 

 

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Varnsen

Varnsen

Posted
Posted

Time for a fascinating update. 

 

I bought a torque wrench. 

 

The initial diagrams from Fanatec said to tighten the C-clamp to 10nm but then after looking further, they upped that suggestion to 15nm. I tightened the clamp as best i could with an allen key then I tried my new fancy wrench and was pretty shocked by how much more I had to tighten it to reach 15nm. I'd never have been able to do that with a simple allen key and I'd also not believe it was necessary. 

 

Since then, so far so good. It doesn't appear to have moved a mm and feels secure. it clearly IS a design flaw though to have to go that amount of force to secure it and clearly shipped DD Pros were probably a decent amount below even the 10nm they initially suggested. 

 

Fingers crossed it stays working. 

 

And now I can rest easy knowing that all available screws at home are now at the correct manufacturers recommended tightness. 

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Varnsen

Varnsen

Posted
Posted

Interesting but my main point was previously with the allen key i was pretty sure it was as tight as it could go but turns out it needed to be significantly tighter. 

Also, Fanatec themselves have doubled their recommended tightness from launch. 

 

I'm trying to say I'm pretty tough and strong and recently bought tools. 💪

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Escape

Escape

Posted
Posted

15Nm is really high for a single-bolt clamp for this application IMO. For reference, a lot of motorbike clutch and brake levers are tightened to around 8, which is firm enough that they don't move unless you drop the bike, where they're hopefully just loose enough to rotate rather than break.

 

I tighten my clipon bars to 12 max, which again should rotate if dropped but otherwise never move, especially not under hard braking. Go too hard and you can damage the forks. Although that's with wider clamps and 2-4 bolts, but still. The handlebar stem on my pushbike's around 20 and I can yank on that for wheelies all day!

 

So for a single-bolt clamp on a wheel, I think something's definitely gone wrong if they're recommending more than 10. That's about what most pushbike handlebar clamps use (though again with multiple bolts increasing bite, so not totally comparable). Gives an idea of the force, though.

 

Unless you're really strong, I'd guess that's in the ballpark of max achievable tightness with a small Allen key for most of us.

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Shimmyhill

Shimmyhill

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Escape said:

15Nm is really high for a single-bolt clamp for this application IMO. For reference, a lot of motorbike clutch and brake levers are tightened to around 8, which is firm enough that they don't move unless you drop the bike, where they're hopefully just loose enough to rotate rather than break.

 

I tighten my clipon bars to 12 max, which again should rotate if dropped but otherwise never move, especially not under hard braking. Go too hard and you can damage the forks. Although that's with wider clamps and 2-4 bolts, but still. The handlebar stem on my pushbike's around 20 and I can yank on that for wheelies all day!

 

So for a single-bolt clamp on a wheel, I think something's definitely gone wrong if they're recommending more than 10. That's about what most pushbike handlebar clamps use (though again with multiple bolts increasing bite, so not totally comparable). Gives an idea of the force, though.

 

Unless you're really strong, I'd guess that's in the ballpark of max achievable tightness with a small Allen key for most of us.

 

While what you say is bang on I think the main reason for that is the mix of metals - often alu onto steel and vice versa - this is alu - alu so can be clamped higher and clearly Fanatec have had issues at 10NM and revised that to 15NM, quote common to get revisions but poor show on something that’s essentially user serviceable but no ability to do for most without the tool.

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Escape

Escape

Posted
Posted

Is the crux, because most owners won't have a scoob without one.

 

Even when I say ‘really tight with an Allen key’, you can get longer keys with more leverage that could overtorque it. Another general guide is a 1/4" socket wrench with its head under your palm for minimal leverage, but that's still a lot of guesswork.

 

I don't know the grade of bolt they use, but figure you'd snap that first if you went ham.

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Shimmyhill

Shimmyhill

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Escape said:

Is the crux, because most owners won't have a scoob without one.

 

Even when I say ‘really tight with an Allen key’, you can get longer keys with more leverage that could overtorque it. Another general guide is a 1/4" socket wrench with its head under your palm for minimal leverage, but that's still a lot of guesswork.

 

I don't know the grade of bolt they use, but figure you'd snap that first if you went ham.

 

Spot on, I will try and remember to check mine - will be interesting to see what I have torqued mine to by feel - I used a ratchet screwdriver thing.

 

Does anyone on here have a Trak Racer rig? I know some have the GT Omega Prime and I currently have one of there wheel stands with seat add on - I just can’t get it setup how I want it and as ever should have gone for a full rig in the first place…

 

Trak Racer do a couple or rigs that are cheaper than the GT Omega prime and while im sure the Prime is better I dont think I would need anything more than the TR80-Lite or TR80 my 5 from Trak Racer and thats knocking on for £250 cheaper for the lite (Prime is on offer at the moment) Im sure that the Prime is better, pedal plate in particular but its also a fair bit bigger and im limited for space…

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Shimmyhill

Shimmyhill

Posted
Posted
On 17/10/2022 at 11:41, Varnsen said:

Time for a fascinating update. 

 

I bought a torque wrench. 

 

The initial diagrams from Fanatec said to tighten the C-clamp to 10nm but then after looking further, they upped that suggestion to 15nm. I tightened the clamp as best i could with an allen key then I tried my new fancy wrench and was pretty shocked by how much more I had to tighten it to reach 15nm. I'd never have been able to do that with a simple allen key and I'd also not believe it was necessary. 

 

Since then, so far so good. It doesn't appear to have moved a mm and feels secure. it clearly IS a design flaw though to have to go that amount of force to secure it and clearly shipped DD Pros were probably a decent amount below even the 10nm they initially suggested. 

 

Fingers crossed it stays working. 

 

And now I can rest easy knowing that all available screws at home are now at the correct manufacturers recommended tightness. 

 

To keep the updates rolling….

 

I checked my clamp today - I had done it to between 10Nm - 11Nm by hand with my ratchet screwdriver so torqued it to 15Nm with my torque wrench - no way you could / would do that with an allen key, even going from 13Nm - 15Nm felt a little uneasy but poss as its hard to get a short bit into he head of the nut!

 

I immediatly went faster on GT7 TT - im gonna put that down to the physics change in recent update since I last played it tho 😉

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Escape

Escape

Posted
Posted
On 21/10/2022 at 15:30, Shimmyhill said:

I immediatly went faster on GT7 TT - im gonna put that down to the physics change in recent update since I last played it tho 😉

 

The F1 licence test on Laguna's an exception for me: the rear has less grip exiting the first few turns.

 

[update]

 

Didn't realise the physics had been updated again in 1.25 this week, and was talking about the difference between 1.19 and 1.20 here.

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