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Rllmuk racing wheel thread


TommyG
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@Corranga how much did the seat cost you? If I had just a little more space I would defi go for a rig like that as it possibly takes up less space than my wheel stand and Ikea chair but I dont think i could get the rig and a chair in - its a small room but lucky to have that so can’t complain!!!

 

@Valver looks like an epic delivery, what made you go for that wheel in particular? I’m not the greatest fan of the GT wheel so have been pouring over a wheel upgrade!

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13 minutes ago, Shimmyhill said:

@Corranga how much did the seat cost you? If I had just a little more space I would defi go for a rig like that as it possibly takes up less space than my wheel stand and Ikea chair but I dont think i could get the rig and a chair in - its a small room but lucky to have that so can’t complain!!!

 

Erm, yes...  The Alfa seat was £200 delivered from eBay..  It's a passenger seat (usually better condition than drivers ones as they've been sat in less!), I removed the seat belt mount from it (which I could possible sell).

 

The Mini seat I used to have on it, I converted into a single 'gaming' chair, and actually bought a 2nd one so I have a pair in my games room, here is an older photo of the Mini seat on the rig, and as a single seat behind it too.

The Mini seats cost me £110 and £64! (using one of those 20% off selected sellers eBay codes) inc delivery.  If you live near actual breakers I'm sure you could get something for less, but my whole sim racing journey has evolved through lockdowns / COVID so not really an option (plus, Dundee isn't exactly the best place for lots of breakers)

 

6277D3A4-9456-4CC7-8FB9-F9832F99CDBC.jpeg.991d70c7b1302507730f0f1507f6bbfd.jpeg

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3 hours ago, Shimmyhill said:

 

@Valver looks like an epic delivery, what made you go for that wheel in particular? I’m not the greatest fan of the GT wheel so have been pouring over a wheel upgrade!

 

Most of the cars I seem to end up driving have wheels with chopped off tops/bottoms these days - all the GT3's in ACC for example and the open wheelers in AMS2.  I very rarely do any rallying/drifting where a full round wheel would be required. 

 

This wheel has the vibrating grips and magnetic paddle shifters, along with the metal QR1.  Adding those things to the McLaren GT3 wheel which I was also considering, makes them about equal price.  So I thought "sod it - get the Formula wheel". 

 

With F1 22 coming out with VR support soon, I can see me spending a load of time on that, and that needs all sort of dials and buttons and a formula style wheel.

 

I dare say there will be a round wheel appearing in my house at some point down the line too though :lol:

 

 

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21 minutes ago, Valver said:

 

Most of the cars I seem to end up driving have wheels with chopped off tops/bottoms these days - all the GT3's in ACC for example and the open wheelers in AMS2.  I very rarely do any rallying/drifting where a full round wheel would be required. 

 

This wheel has the vibrating grips and magnetic paddle shifters, along with the metal QR1.  Adding those things to the McLaren GT3 wheel which I was also considering, makes them about equal price.  So I thought "sod it - get the Formula wheel". 

 

With F1 22 coming out with VR support soon, I can see me spending a load of time on that, and that needs all sort of dials and buttons and a formula style wheel.

 

I dare say there will be a round wheel appearing in my house at some point down the line too though :lol:

 

 

 

Very nice, I think it will be the McLaren wheel for me as I imagine the FF in the wheel is a PC only thing? I do like the look of the QR but its expensive to add as you say…I still need to get the loadcell brake and potentially the bigger power supply but been monitoring some third party options for that one.

 

Expensive game this sim racing stuff!!!

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4 hours ago, milko said:

nice. what're you going to fit it to?

 

For now I am going to bolt it onto my old GameRacer Pro cockpit.  But today the wife actually said (unprompted) didn't you want to get a nice new frame for it too? Which is a green light for another big purchase if ever I saw one!   So I see a GT Omega Prime in my near future.

 

Anyhow, tonight I've unbolted my Thrustmaster wheel from the rig, only to find that my wheel plate has got bugger all mounting holes in it.  There are 2 in the spot for a Logitech wheel, and two I drilled last year for the TS-PC.  Typically none of them line up with the 80mm x 60mm 4 hole pattern on the base of the CSL DD.  So Ive spent the last 20 minutes drawing up a template and marking up the metal plate for drilling tomorrow.  Wish me luck.  I hope A&E isnt required!

 

I'll post a pic when it's all bolted down...

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Oh Shit!

 

After a beer (or two) I decided - why not, I'm worth it!

 

GT Omega Prime ordered!! :omg:

 

image.png.d25e5c1f968ecc1688bc29b75a80e5e4.png

 

Didn't buy an Omega GT seat though - hate the PVC coatings they supply - so followed @davejm's lead and separately ordered a Sparco R100 in black (and a seat slider runner thingy)

 

Also - I did a quick google for GT Omega discount codes (doesn't everyone try that?) and fluked a 10% off code that was actually valid!  £57 saved! 

edit: sharing the love it was "SAVE10"  😆    and no, I'm not joking!

 

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14 hours ago, Valver said:

 

For now I am going to bolt it onto my old GameRacer Pro cockpit.  But today the wife actually said (unprompted) didn't you want to get a nice new frame for it too? Which is a green light for another big purchase if ever I saw one!   So I see a GT Omega Prime in my near future.

 

Anyhow, tonight I've unbolted my Thrustmaster wheel from the rig, only to find that my wheel plate has got bugger all mounting holes in it.  There are 2 in the spot for a Logitech wheel, and two I drilled last year for the TS-PC.  Typically none of them line up with the 80mm x 60mm 4 hole pattern on the base of the CSL DD.  So Ive spent the last 20 minutes drawing up a template and marking up the metal plate for drilling tomorrow.  Wish me luck.  I hope A&E isnt required!

 

I'll post a pic when it's all bolted down...

 

Perhaps a bit late now, and I expect you were drawing up a complete plate, but I think the Fanatec site has a print off mounting holes template for the wheel base

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On 07/05/2022 at 18:50, Shimmyhill said:

I’m having a ‘mare setting up my pedals on the GTomega classic stand - I had them setup with just two bolts holding them on as didnt have the correct m6 bolts so got some of them today but now I can’t get all 4 lined up on the pedal stand bit, I swear they came with throttle all the way over to the right and brake to the left!? Pics on the site have them centered so ive been moving them around but long story short… I can’t find a place that all 4 bolts will fit.

 

I assume but would be good to have confirmed the bolt pattern on the new CSL pedals is different from the prev Fanatec pedals hence not fitting a stand with the Fanatec holes pre drilled?

 I had that same stand and the same problem when I got my T-LCMs. I ended up drilling my own holes using the template that came with the pedals, I think you will have to do the same. 

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I had two deliveries from ParcelForce today.  My GT Omega Prime and then my Sparco seat from DemonTweeks about ten minutes later.

 

What a lot of bolts, OMG.

 

After spending the best part of 3 hours on it I'm at the point where I can start adjusting positions of the wheel while I'm sat down.  A few more hours and I may actually be able to plug the thing in to my PC.

 

General observations.

 

  • The seat is great quality!  Love it.  Seems comfy so far too.
  • The GT Omega stuff has so far been amazing.  Everything is so study and solid.  Brilliantly packaged for transit too.  They supply lots of extra bolts in each bag which is a nice touch (i.e. if you need 8 for a given step they give you 9). 
  • Their special spring loaded T-nuts are both a blessing and a curse.  On the one hand they can be rolled into the aluminium profile rails from outside, so you dont have to worry too much about planning ahead and sliding them onto a rail from an end, before bolting something else in place that would later block it. But on the other hand, they have a habit of then rolling inside the rail before you can get a bolt in to secure them...  and they then fall out. 
  • GT Omega also provide bolts of the correct size to secure various common wheel bases and pedal sets.  Which is handy because the bolts I was going to use for the CSL DD base turned out to be too long, and I thought I was going to have to go and buy shorter ones.
  • The instructions show a few pictures where the pedal tray was a single bit of metal - but now its been upgraded to a new design of two bit of aluminium profile.  Happy to have an improved version, but the instruction could do with an update.
  • Fitting the seat slider rails to the seat and then the seat to the frame was a pig.

 

Very happy so far.  Stopping for the evening and will carry on tomorrow.  More pics when I'm done...

 

photo_2022-05-13_20-27-00.jpg

photo_2022-05-13_20-26-48.jpg

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1 hour ago, Junker said:

 I had that same stand and the same problem when I got my T-LCMs. I ended up drilling my own holes using the template that came with the pedals, I think you will have to do the same. 

 

Thanks - ive been in contact with their customer services and they said the same. Im going to wait and see if I get the loadcell / club sports before i get the drill out.

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And I'm done! (for now).  I even bolted on a cup holder.

 

This pic is of it now "installed" in the correct place in my games room.   The wheel/shifter and pedal cables are all tidied away with velcro or cable ties.  The cable tie profile connector clips they supply are brilliant.  Makes the job so much easier. 

 

I've done a fair bit of positional adjusting and found a comfortable spot for everything - but a few races might be required so I can see if further tweaking is needed.

 

The CSL DD is brilliant.  I was shocked by how strong it is - after two laps in ACC I had tired arms using full strength FF!

 

One thing @davejm - that new design pedal tray profile arrangement doesn't fit my T-LCMs in any sensible way.  I had to swap round the x4 and x2 profile section and position the pedals in a slightly odd way to get any bolt holes to line up.  The way it is set up now works fine, but it looks a little goofy with the heel plate bit jutting backwards into free space.    The bit where all the force is applied is over the strong stuff though.

 

It's 100% rock solid. 

 

photo_2022-05-14_15-58-28.jpg

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Awesome scenes!! 😀

 

It's great to have that excitement of new gear.  I'm fully in the land of diminishing returns now.  My last two upgrades; the pedals (HE Sprints) and new headset (Reverb G2) have been somewhat if a side-grade in truth.  Better, but not hundreds of pounds better.  So I don't think I'll get to have that excitement again 😂

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@Valver How is the new rig treating you?

 

I've got the new pedal deck installed now, and it's so much better.   The better mounting options means I've been able to move the pedals over to the left, so I have the brake and throttle dead in the middle now.  Hopefully this will help with the knee pain.

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I spent a few hours in a variety of games yesterday. Night and day difference from the old wheel and rig, to this new setup.  It is more comfortable, easier to get in and out of, and the rigidity of the wheel mounting means I'm getting 100% of the force feedback through my arms, rather than some of it being wasted on "post wobble" that I had in the last rig.  I've gone from a 6nm belt wheel (TS-PC) to an 8nm direct drive wheel - but it feels double the strength!

 

Loving it!

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@Valver will be impossible to know for sure but I'm betting the rig makes a bigger difference to improving your driving than the fancy wheel. I was surprised just how much better my setup improved me from the wheelstand pro. That did an ok job for what it was but I hated the post between my legs and couldn't really get an ideal seating position with it.

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Looking good, Valver! I'd love to have something like that myself in the future. Al that stuff comes pre-cut, I assume?

 

19 minutes ago, Valver said:

the rigidity of the wheel mounting means I'm getting 100% of the force feedback through my arms, rather than some of it being wasted on "post wobble" that I had in the last rig.

 

The wheel stand pro II that I'm using has a tiiiiiiny amount of push/pull wobble. I can fix it with some sort of strut, but I haven't found a fitting one yet. I think it will be as rigid as I'd like it to be then. Even though the current wobble is minimal, it's enough to put me off at times when trying to correct snap oversteer.

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3 minutes ago, milko said:

I was surprised just how much better my setup improved me from the wheelstand pro. That did an ok job for what it was but I hated the post between my legs and couldn't really get an ideal seating position with it.

 

I don't mind the post that much, but it makes getting into the seat a bit difficult indeed (not for me, but for others who want to give it a go). One particular mate tried to pull himself up out of the seat by holding the wheel, despite me showing how to do it. :hmm:

 

Would it be worth it to DIY such a rig or isn't it worth the hassle?

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10 minutes ago, Meers said:

I don't mind the post that much, but it makes getting into the seat a bit difficult indeed (not for me, but for others who want to give it a go). One particular mate tried to pull himself up out of the seat by holding the wheel, despite me showing how to do it. :hmm:

 

Would it be worth it to DIY such a rig or isn't it worth the hassle?

 

I think you've a more permanent setup than I was wrestling with so it might not be such a big difference for you. I did sometimes pull the whole thing sideways or towards me a bit in the more exciting moments. And I just never felt like I had my left leg comfortable around it really.

 

Reddit's r/simracing quite often has people showing off their DIY rig efforts, you can definitely come up with something good with wood or metal (or even that plastic tubing actually). I suppose it's worth the hassle to people who have the materials, tools, skills and time! I might have gone that way myself but I found a local eBay bargain instead.

 

 

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10 minutes ago, milko said:

I think you've a more permanent setup than I was wrestling with

 

Yeah granted, I did bolt the thing down on the base plate with metal brackets so it can't move at all. It's just the top of the post that wobbles a bit. Strut time!

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29 minutes ago, Tomdominer said:

Has anyone owned / tried both the Thrustmaster T300 and one of the Fanatec wheels with direct drive?

 

I was wondering if the DD stuff really justifies the price difference...

 

 

Like I posted above, I went from a Thrustmaster TS-PC (so their top of the range PC only wheel at 6Nm) to a Fanatec CSL DD at 8Nm .  And the difference in force strength is startling (alongside the caveat I got a sturdier mount for it at the same time) I would imagine the jump from a T300 (with about 4Nm) would be an even bigger improvement!

 

The detail you feel with a DD wheel is also improved.  The belt drives are good and smooth, but they dampen a bit of the effects too.

 

HTH

 

Any specific questions?

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10 hours ago, Tomdominer said:

Has anyone owned / tried both the Thrustmaster T300 and one of the Fanatec wheels with direct drive?

 

I was wondering if the DD stuff really justifies the price difference...

 

 

 

While many years ago I had a Fanatec GT2 belt drive and now have a DD pro (5nm) and the jump is huge - hard to explain outside advantages of FF strength & fidelity but it feels instinctive to catch a slide in a way it just didnt on the belt drive wheel, sounds really wanky but I really did fear it wasnt going to be worth the investment and it has been.

 

My only complaint is im not a fan of the DD pro GT wheel itself if thats the one you are looking at, I find it a little uncomfortable around the grip area and never had that with the old wheel. I was always going to get another rim for xbox compatibility but still….

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14 hours ago, Valver said:

image.png.cabf35ab0559523838166cc8210b078b.png

 

Hang on, am I not using the right term? Shoar? Truss? Brace? Shore? Buttress? Stanchion? Abutment?

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21 minutes ago, Meers said:

 

Hang on, am I not using the right term? Shoar? Truss? Brace? Shore? Buttress? Stanchion? Abutment?

 

Strut works for your plan and Leo as pictured, gawd bless her Majesties English!

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19 minutes ago, Shimmyhill said:

 

Strut works for your plan and Leo as pictured, gawd bless her Majesties English!

 

Thanks, I'll keep strutting then. 😅

 

Yeah English makes no sense sometimes. Dutch is way more structured with clear rules.*

 

 

 

* Actually, it's not. That's German.

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Another little upgrade today...  I ordered this 3D printed part to slot inside my TH8A gearshifter.  

 

The shifter shaft slides through the slot in the middle so that the internal spring loaded ball bearings provide a positive clunk and some resistance when you  push past them as you shift gears.  There are adjuster screws to vary the pressure required to click the shifter past the ball bearings on each shift...  

 

Will fit it shortly and report back!

 

It's the first time I've held a 3D printed part and I have to say I'm really impressed with the quality.  There's a slight pattern from the layers on some sides of it, but it's totally smooth to the touch.

 

Edit:  Update - fitted in about 15 minutes.  Feels fantastic.  It has added a nice solid clunk and some meaty resistance when engaging each shift.  

 

 

IMG_20220518_105715-01.jpeg

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On 14/05/2022 at 16:07, Valver said:

photo_2022-05-14_15-58-28.jpg

@mrben09 - you asked how long this was...   so from the front edge of the frame's pedal plate  to the furthest point back, on the seat top,  it is 157cms long.

 

But this is super configurable...  the pedal plate can move forwards loads more, and my seat is quite upright, it reclines loads if you want.  But for me a 6ft 1 this is perfect

 

By way of an experiment, I whizzed the seat back on its runners to the maximum rear position, and then reclined it one more notch - its now 175cms.

 

Does that help?  PM me if you want any more specific info.

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