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Rllmuk racing wheel thread


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18 minutes ago, jonathanhoey said:

I need to make a Thrustmaster spare parts order - I broke part of the clamp assembly when I was attaching my T150 to the Playseat. Anyone need anything? 

 

Is there no way you can ditch the clamp and bolt the wheel to the seat?  Those clamps are generally pretty rubbish.

 

If you do need one though, you can have the one off my T300 if it'll fit.

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Aw you guys!

 

The T150 only has the one big central screw hole that accepts the quick-release clamp thing. It doesn't have other mounting points for bolting it directly to the Playseat plate. 

 

The Thrustmaster website lists them as separate parts for the different wheels. 

 

https://shop.thrustmaster.com/en_gb/spare-parts/racing-wheel-fixation-kit.html

 

t500-f430ffb-fixationsystem_1.jpg

 

^^^ for the T300. 

 

https://shop.thrustmaster.com/en_gb/spare-parts/fixation-kit-for-t150-tmx.html

 

t150-tmxfixationkit_1.jpg

 

^^^ for the T150. 

 

Mine is clamped on good and tight to the Playseat and it's not going anywhere, I just broke the plastic handle off the screw when I was tightening it up. So to get it off I'll need pliers (probably). 

 

The reason I wanted to buy another one is just so that if I upgrade to a T300, I'll have a working clamp to include when I sell the T150 on. 

 

If it is the same screw (but for the metal T-bar versus the plastic thing) and if one of you doesn't need yours, then yes I would be grateful for it!

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Set up my G920 yesterday and had my first go of Assetto Corsa Competizione. I've not bothered trying to play it with a pad, just straight into it with the wheel. Gave myself a blister on my right thumb I was holding on so tight :)

 

It is weird, but I expected that. I've found a few set up guides to adjust the FFB so its a bit easier for a noob. The only pisser... I wish the G29/920 was a bit quicker to unclamp and stow away. I've gone from a new PC build with anal cable management to having shit all over the place.

 

2hrs in I'm loving ACC and the wheel, just want to get to a point where I'm competent with it. 

 

 

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We could probably do with a new players guide for ACC in the main thread but choose the ‘safe’ setup, make sure the TC and ABS are at a sensible level and just drive. And then drive some more. There’s a racing line aid if you need to use that too. Take some time to learn how the rolling starts and pitstops work as well. 

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5 hours ago, Count Buffalos said:

We could probably do with a new players guide for ACC in the main thread but choose the ‘safe’ setup, make sure the TC and ABS are at a sensible level and just drive. And then drive some more. There’s a racing line aid if you need to use that too. Take some time to learn how the rolling starts and pitstops work as well. 

 

Cheers @Count Buffalos Not messed with setups but did find a guide for tweaking the wheel and getting on a lot better. Spunked up for all the DLC too... fark it! I'm in deep. 

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I've left my wheel settings (TMX Pro) on default so far, not really sure what I'd be looking to improve if I change it, so far! 

 

Setting the position of it all up on the wheelstand pro at the same time as getting the game options going is quite intimidating, especially as I'm also trying to do it on Oculus via Link - everything feels like it's one slip from disaster (my feet immediately find clutch and accelerator so far, which is quite amusing when your brain thinks it's doing left foot braking and nothing happens) and there's always one more control or something I need to find. I had it reasonably close yesterday and then within minutes my wife said it was time I attended to the child, lol. I'll get there...

 

 

 

 

 

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On 28/11/2020 at 20:46, spatular said:

Fanatec have a Black Friday sale, so you can get the PlayStation base for £320, but the cheapest Xbox wheel is £200, is that normal? Don’t know why but I thought there was a cheaper one normally.


Probably a bit late, but my Xbox P1 alcantara rim was 180 Eur in May

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On 29/11/2020 at 14:10, Parappa said:

Thanks for this.. Found a set on Facebook for 50 quid delivered 

This was a no show but looks like I am getting my money back.  Off to get another set locally that has the conical brake mod - what does this do?

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8 minutes ago, Parappa said:

This was a no show but looks like I am getting my money back.  Off to get another set locally that has the conical brake mod - what does this do?


It’s an optional piece that is literally just a cone-shaped rubber bung which you can mount under (actually behind) the brake pedal.

 

Without it, when you brake you are just pushing against the spring. It’s a linear force so it’s the same all the way through the pedal travel, and it feels lightweight and easy to depress.

 

With the cone, you get more resistance the harder you depress the pedal. It’s meant to feel more like the brake pedal in a real car. The actual extent of the pedal travel doesn’t change, but it’s just harder to push it to the end. The effect is you can make smaller/more precise modulations to your braking by ‘squeezing’ the pedal. For me it’s a big improvement versus leaving it off. 
 

I guess people don’t install it, then lose it. My used T3PA didn’t have one so I ordered it from the Thrustmaster spare parts site.

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3 minutes ago, jonathanhoey said:


It’s an optional piece that is literally just a cone-shaped rubber bung which you can mount under (actually behind) the brake pedal.

 

Without it, when you brake you are just pushing against the spring. It’s a linear force so it’s the same all the way through the pedal travel, and it feels lightweight and easy to depress.

 

With the cone, you get more resistance the harder you depress the pedal. It’s meant to feel more like the brake pedal in a real car. The actual extent of the pedal travel doesn’t change, but it’s just harder to push it to the end. The effect is you can make smaller/more precise modulations to your braking by ‘squeezing’ the pedal. For me it’s a big improvement versus leaving it off. 
 

I guess people don’t install it, then lose it. My used T3PA didn’t have one so I ordered it from the Thrustmaster spare parts site.

 

I heard a squash ball works well too. Keep meaning to try it out on my T3PA. Don't really want to shell out on an expensive cone. 

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Yeah I should have said the cone mod kit is actually the rubber bit (which you can replace with a squash ball) and a little mild steel bracket that screws into the pedal base. That works as a backstop for the rubber. Without it you’d have to kind of jam the ball in and hope it wouldn’t pop out.

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18 minutes ago, Ry said:

Has anyone here used a drive hub before? 

 

Trying to get impressions on it. 

 

I'm not sure if there's someone on the forum who uses one.

 

I think the consensus is that if you really don't want to get a new wheel, the drive hub is the way to go. In my personal opinion though, new wheels are more suited for the new hardware that they're built for instead of continuing to use your old wheel. Frequencies in FFB change and, the simulation is more advanced and the effects are more subtle on new gen games, which may not be picked up by an old gen wheel.

 

I can't look inside your wallet though, so make of that what you will. :)

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23 minutes ago, jonathanhoey said:

Yeah I should have said the cone mod kit is actually the rubber bit (which you can replace with a squash ball) and a little mild steel bracket that screws into the pedal base. That works as a backstop for the rubber. Without it you’d have to kind of jam the ball in and hope it wouldn’t pop out.

 

Ah right, I thought I could just stick a ball down the gap for pedal. 

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I'm pretty sure the bolts would've come with the seat, they defo came with my stand.  They're fairly standard though and I think the wheel's manual should tell you the type of bolt and also the maximum length they should be.

 

Yep, page 10:

 

https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/manuals/t300rs/t300_fgte_manual.pdf

 

Mentions that they are M6 screws and should not exceed 10mm.  Also, defo not included with the wheel :(

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10 minutes ago, SharkyOB said:

Mentions that they are M6 screws and should not exceed 10mm.  Also, defo not included with the wheel :(

 

It's always M6, 10mm for every brand of FFB wheel (bar the Direct Drive ones) on the market. You can get them in any hardware store. ;)

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12 minutes ago, Meers said:

 

I said wheel, not chair! :lol:

 

I know, I was just saying that it's sods law that I've got a million M6 (due to a lot of things over the years that seem to take them) yet the one time I go to use them it turns out I need M8.  Spent a fortune on this chair and slider yet it didn't come with any bolts!  Shame on you Sparco!!

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6 hours ago, Ry said:

Has anyone here used a drive hub before? 

 

Trying to get impressions on it. 


I use one for PS4 and GT Sport, it’s been great BUT the cost needs to be balanced against the wheel you’re making compatible i.e. if it’s a cheap wheel use the money towards a new wheel instead.
 

Haven’t tried it with the PS5 yet.

 

There’s a code for 10% off knocking about if you search.

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1 hour ago, scoobysi said:


I use one for PS4 and GT Sport, it’s been great BUT the cost needs to be balanced against the wheel you’re making compatible i.e. if it’s a cheap wheel use the money towards a new wheel instead.
 

Haven’t tried it with the PS5 yet.

 

There’s a code for 10% off knocking about if you search.

 

I couldn't warrant another wheel. My other half is already pissed off at the Playseat with T150 attached in my cupboard. 

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