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7 minutes ago, And said:


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Yeah, there is that. But I'm not actually a Nazi so I think it's fine.

 

There are people I've come across who enthusiastically play german forces and lean that way, though - in particlar one ex-work colleaguye who once expounded to me, at length, about how WW2 was poland's fault.

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Sorry. Wasn’t suggesting you were, just love that sketch - any excuse. 
Are there many people who play as “the baddies”? I mean it’s not like 40K where basically everyone is the baddies. 

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i dont think generally people need to have an afinity with the nazi ideology to want to play as Germans in FoW / BA. a lot of the Interest in German forces comes from the technological front with the armour designs and aircraft. The utter bewiderment that someone actually managed to make the Tiger 1 or 2 (and their variants)and get any sort of success in the 1940s is crazy.

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Nah, playing as the Germans in a WW2 game is absolutely fine.  I mean, I played as Ghengis Khan in one of the Total War games, and I disagree with many of his core philosophies.

 

It's the people who paint a 40K Orc army with loads of Nazi iconography that you have to watch out for.

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22 hours ago, And said:

Sorry. Wasn’t suggesting you were, just love that sketch - any excuse. 
Are there many people who play as “the baddies”? I mean it’s not like 40K where basically everyone is the baddies. 

 

I didn't think you actually were, but it is something I've thought a lot about. And even so, I can't quite bring myself to play a Waffen-SS formation (as opposed to German Army).

 

My experience is that in WW2 gaming, most people will have an Allied and Axis army for the system of their choice. Now for me, I've got a US army for Bolt Action and German for Flames of War - because I've only been doing WW2 historical for a couple of years and am a sucker for trying out new systems especially when the bundle deals are such good value....

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2 hours ago, Nicky said:

@RFT have you seen the PeterPig FoW models? i have a bunch of them both Allied and German. they're metal but they're wonderful

Just had a look at them. lots of cool models but between half a starter box and army deal I bought this year I've got a full company of panzergrenadiers (of which I've painted 2 platoons) and I can't see myself needing any more infantry for come considerable time.

 

A Maus is tempting though...

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I have a load of their shermans they're beautiful. also the battledamaged tiger 1 and some stugs. here's some early WIPs of them, i cant get to tthe case they're in at the moment:

86809173_10159253554704638_2900835888269

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Winsor Newton Series 7 Miniature Size 1.  hands down best brush. Mine take an absolute BEATING. enamels, oils, white spirit, acrylic, metallics, it lives on my desk amonst the bits of sprue and tools without a guard, has paint in the ferules and it holds a point like an absolute monster.  they have a smaller belly, so the bristles are focused into a point with much more assurance.

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I've been getting braver regarding shading, and have even dabbled in some wet blending (easier than it sounds). 

 

In particular, I've started using a medium from my Scale Modelling kit, namely the wonderful stuff that is Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colour.  As good as the various Citadel Shade Paints are (Nuln Oil etc) I find they are best applied as an overall wash, as they have the nice side effect of dulling down or blending in the overall colour. But the Tamiya stuff comes with a built in brush, and I find you can apply a "pin wash" incredibly precisely to recessed areas, wherein it flows effortlessly. I'm even using it to add black lines around details, such as the pauldrons of my Sequitors, or even around white areas, to really make that white pop. Even someone as clumsy as me can avoid the base colours with the brush, meaning my gold or whatever stays gold, and the really deep areas, or the gaps between armoured knuckles say, can be made really dark. It helps that whereas in scale modelling the panel lines are often very shallow, with these minis the recesses are very pronounced, especially on things like gravestones.

 

This is an example of a (just started) model before the pin wash. It just has a base layer of Retributor Armour, a Shade of Reikland Fleshshade, and a (rather clumsy) dry brush of Stormhost Silver. I've only done one coat of white so far, and two of Kantor Blue:

 

Before.thumb.jpg.5d891ac34d0fe3bee7745a6374f94cca.jpg

 

And this is after a pin wash of black Tamiya Panel Line Accent:

 

after.thumb.jpg.37d5f20b6bdf2130f8f349c87677e7fa.jpg

 

It's an enamel, so any excess can be mopped up with a cotton bud. It dries a bit glossy, which is a boon for armour, but you can dull it down again with any matt acrylic. It lightens slightly when it's dry though, which helps it blend with the Reikland Shade.

 

You probably all know about it, but I was finding the shadows a bit lacking with the standard Nuln Oil recommended by GW, so I thought I'd mention it. :)

 

 

 

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Yep. Everyone should embrace enamel washes. Ive been harping on about it for years - you can achieve a very very similar effect with custom oil washes. Any mess that you make with oil washes or enamel washes and panel liner are best cleaned up with an odourless / refined white spirit. i tend to prefer using a wetted brush rather than a Qtip/cotton bud becuase they're softer and finer.

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I use oils for it, I’ve got a thing about enamels after many bad experiences as a kid with them & airfix kits :lol:

 

@Nicky have you tried Lifecolour’s liquid pigments?  They claim to do the same as oils/enamels but with acrylics.  I got a free set with my new compressor, for some reason, haven’t got around to trying them yet.  They come with a pot of stuff to do the job of spirits and remove it.

 

 

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@The BagI havent yet. i am on selfimposed no-buying-any-more-paints-unless-i-run-out ban. I have been using a lot of watercolours in my painting recently to great effect. Enamel washes are much more powerful than oil washes (the weathering types from Mig) because they have liquid and solid pigment mixes in so you get a much more interesting and characterful look than plain oil washes which use their main colour pigment only diluted in the spirit medium

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I'm still at the "Goddam, please can I just get at least one coat in the right place!" stage of this, so for me the tiny little brush in the lid of the Tamiya stuff is enough of a reason to favour that medium. I can be far more accurate with it than with any other wash I've used, and the flow is really quite magical.

 

Preaching to the converted here I know, but you can see here where I’ve used it in the deep recesses around the knee armour in particular. Compare to the crossbow, which currently has just the all over wash of Reikland Flesh shade:


85645A5E-00CD-447D-B5DD-7DD6CADA7B10.thumb.jpeg.deab4272c2ad9f14d9eaf1fbe27e2865.jpeg

 

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Finished nurgling up the COVID tank and made a start on painting. Long way to go. 
I need some decent sized 1cm high numeral decals to put 2020 down the side of it. I’ve some ad mech ones that are a good font but a bit small. Anyone got any ideas? Or should I try stencilling? 

E7AAC995-9BB3-4A90-913F-765D0E32B287.jpeg

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This weeks WW2 activities have been larger and on the other side as I’ve added to my Sherman collection with an early-production M4

 

(the one on the right)

A74CB9DC-1880-4DE8-B740-5459E7AB1814.jpeg

2EAC0125-0DEE-46D9-8CE5-44B055FC0CA2.jpeg

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On 30/09/2020 at 18:53, And said:

Finished nurgling up the COVID tank and made a start on painting. Long way to go. 
I need some decent sized 1cm high numeral decals to put 2020 down the side of it. I’ve some ad mech ones that are a good font but a bit small. Anyone got any ideas? Or should I try stencilling? 

E7AAC995-9BB3-4A90-913F-765D0E32B287.jpeg


Some freehand?  Or the scale model ppl probably know where to get suitable transfers for it.  Or I think you can get transfer paper for printers?

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I think I’m finally winning the battle of accuracy. I’m 70% there on a handful of Stormcasts, and already I’m looking at the first three I bought and seeing an improvement over them. 
 

I want to get a few finished in the “official” colours, whilst I continue my drive to simply practice getting the right colours in the right place, and then I might start going off-piste as I think that might be more fun.

 

Work in progress shot:

 

0E389982-B59C-46F8-B4BB-41A368902FF6.thumb.jpeg.63f44d7eac7530778b53e2e5c57613df.jpeg

 

 

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12 hours ago, The Bag said:


Some freehand?  Or the scale model ppl probably know where to get suitable transfers for it.  Or I think you can get transfer paper for printers?

Think it might have to be freehand. Found some interesting soviet ones on eBay but I’m not paying £14 a sheet. The tank was less than that!

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4 hours ago, And said:

Think it might have to be freehand. Found some interesting soviet ones on eBay but I’m not paying £14 a sheet. The tank was less than that!

 

I got my Soviet Infantry decals from Bolt Action, to make my Soviet Space Marines. Think it was about £10 including postage. 

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That would pretty much double the value of the vehicle !

 

Also - so many edges. So much highlighting. This is as bad as that repulsor. 

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