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Games Workshop, An Appreciation Thread


Lorfarius
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Thanks.  :)

 

It's tricky when you have always had a bit of imposter syndrome and you're talking to people who are discussing their Golden Demon entries.  Meanwhile I'm struggling to edge highlight any metallics properly. :facepalm:

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1 hour ago, feltmonkey said:

 

I think sometimes you get jobs where a previous painter painted something, and has subsequently left, and we have to replicate the paintjob to match.  I'm not looking forward to that happening!  I don't really belong in the miniature painting company I keep, and the idea of trying to exactly replicate these more talented guys' work is daunting.  I'm in a whatsapp group with multiple Slayer Sword winners and Eavy Metal painters, ffs.  I live in fear of being found out.  :lol:

 

 

I recently had one of the top painters in the US ask if I wanted to do box art for a major company and my first response was fear and anxiety that I wasn't good enough, would fuck it up and whatever reputation I have would be ruined 🤣

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2 minutes ago, Cocky said:

 

I recently had one of the top painters in the US ask if I wanted to do box art for a major company and my first response was fear and anxiety that I wasn't good enough, would fuck it up and whatever reputation I have would be ruined 🤣

 

I totally get it, of course. 

 

I don't know if you need to hear this, but you should definitely go for it.  And don't change anything you normally do when you do it.

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1 hour ago, feltmonkey said:

 

 

@MattKB I'm not sure I understand what you're saying about the paint becoming tacky.  Is it just when you're painting bases, or near bases?  What kind of paints do you use?  Could it be the basing materials?


Sorry so I meant if I paint the rim, let it dry, and even know if I go to pick it up it’s slightly sticky to the floor/wooden surface it’s on. 
 

Currently painting an ATV and I’ve done some pipes on the underside, it’s dry but picking it up now if it’s left flat ‘sticks’ slightly. 

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The way to stop your base rims drying and sticking to the top of your painting table is to bluetac them to something so the rim isn't touching the table.

 

I don't know why fully dry paint would be sticking to stuff though, sorry.

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Do you guys have any tips for edge highlighting? 
 

I’m using a small brush as not to get collateral damage but it looks quite untidy, and I keep touching bits between two edges here for example. 

35937255-642E-4E7D-BFB6-03CEB06E12FB.jpeg

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It's really hard, and I'm still not great at it, but in my experience a larger brush with paint only in the tip is better than a really small brush, and paint consistency is also key. 

 

You should thin your paint to the point where you can sort of draw thin lines on your palette, or on your thumb nail. 

 

If you're doing multiple highlights, your first one should be chunky enough that you can then do a thinner one inside the area of your first highlight. One of my painting inspirations talks about doing just that here:

 

 

Bracing your hands by putting your elbows on the desk and your wrists together seems to help, as does holding your breath.

 

Even with all of the above tips, I still find it really hard. It's hard to see, it's hard to control your brush, and it's hard to concentrate and not rush. It is possible though, and I actually think you've done quite a neat job tbh!

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1 hour ago, MattKB said:

Do you guys have any tips for edge highlighting? 
 

I’m using a small brush as not to get collateral damage but it looks quite untidy, and I keep touching bits between two edges here for example. 

 

 

Try using the side of the brush, perpendicular to the edge you are highlighting. Also helpful to thin paints a little more than normal to flow off the brush easier.

 

Dont ask @feltmonkey, I heard he can't even edge highlight metallics properly...

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It's true, I can't do metallics.  The light reflects off the edge I'm trying to highlight so I can't see what I'm doing, and the paint doesn't flow or cover as well as the non-metallic paints.  It's a whole problem.

 

Matte paints though, I might be some use.  The trick is to not use the very tip of your brush.  It's impossible to paint those thin lines to the degree of accuracy you're hoping for with the tip.  Instead, use the edge of the tip, the side of the brush.  Lightly run the side of your brush along the edge you want to highlight.  Then, go back in with your base colour and tidy up the areas where you went too thick.  Even the very best painters have to do this.  

 

Finally, that edge you've done in the photo looks really good.  I can't see the problem area you're seeing.  It's a damn smooth thin line.  You aren't going to get them to hold up to being examined via zoomed-in photographs.  

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1 hour ago, feltmonkey said:

Finally, that edge you've done in the photo looks really good.  I can't see the problem area you're seeing.  It's a damn smooth thin line.  You aren't going to get them to hold up to being examined via zoomed-in photographs.  

 

This is really really important. Put the 2/3 feet away from you and that's where you should assess how well it works IMHO. Photos are shits for making you feel rubbish.

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Only just seen that there’s a 4th Part Work mag in the way - Stormbringer:

 

https://www.fauxhammer.com/partworks-magazines/warhammer-stormbringer-magazine-contents-list-issues-1-80/
 

Lots of stuff from the Dominion set, but also lots of other stuff. I won’t be getting anything as I have vowed not to buy a single miniature until my entire pile of shame is painted, but thought you guys might be interested.

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On 29/04/2022 at 07:47, The Bag said:

 

 

With the usual proviso that if you think it looks good the way you've done it, never ever listen to anyone else who tries to tell you otherwise.

 

So much of what we try to do when painting these tiny little bits of plastic and resin is faking things to make stuff look good. 

 

I mean, Edge highlighting is intrinsically wrong from a realism point of view...but it looks fucking cool when done well! I don't necessarily think one side is better than the other really. Just different approaches. 

 

Argh, I get very grumpy when talking about painting most of the time these days :P

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On 03/05/2022 at 22:06, JoeK said:

 

With the usual proviso that if you think it looks good the way you've done it, never ever listen to anyone else who tries to tell you otherwise.


Of course, I just thought it was interesting to see a slightly different approach to it.

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I expected a Traitor Guardsman faction reveal as the stream went on, but what is there is so cool looking.

 

Those additional Cultists are definitely getting bought to mix in with my Cultists of the Abyss, and I'll probably get some of the others too (since the BSF fan community keep coming up with stat blocks for new stuff and custom scenarios).

 

The alternate heads on that Deamon Prince are just amazing, I can't decide which one I like the best.

 

 

 

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On 06/05/2022 at 17:51, Spatial said:

Aaaaaaand... here's the Traitor Guard.

 

image.thumb.png.f52c919db2dab8a64811d33c342bb02e.png

 

I'm going to buy that whole bloody Kill Team box just for these aren't I. :angry:

 

 

I've got the Traitor Guardsman from BSF, and they are significantly different enough to those poses that I also want this. I do already have the Commisar and Ogre too, though, so would probably need to look into converting them if I could somehow.

 

eua177du0dw11.thumb.jpg.864234c3e93421566d0490b44e400d1e.jpg

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Because those were mono-pose, for me it made having extras for the Abominable Intellect cards a bit 'samey' (although you can clip a few horns off and vary the helmet colour to make them a bit more unique). This definitely opens things right up.

 

Of course I could wait to see if they get a separate release, or from box-splitters on Ebay, but tbh that's far too sensible and I know I'll just want them asap.

 

 

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