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Games Workshop, An Appreciation Thread


Lorfarius
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I might not be the best person to give you advice on this as my own attitude to paint selection is a lot different to most. I find the more intense colors really hard to use given the way I like to paint and right now my favorite paints fall into two categories, grays and whites. The grays are desaturated colors and earth tones, not actual neutral gray, and the whites are off white pastel colors. 

 

What paints you'd need depends on how you intend to paint and it might be worth thing about what your hobby goals are and how you intend to learn painting. My recommendation would be to go the gw route. It's the most expensive option but if you can afford it there are more resources available for how to use those paints including tutorials for the specific models in their white dwarf magazine as well has their youtube channel. The most difficult part of learning to paint is knowing how things are supposed to look at each stage and at the end. The gw tutorials are designed to maximize their profit minimize any uncertainty a beginner painter learning on their own may have whilst also teaching you the most important skills of layering and edge highlighting. At least the precontrast tutorials were, the more recent ones seem to be a bit simpler, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. 

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@Curtis

 

I was going to recommend the Vallejo set there for it's slightly more useful spread of colours, but @Cocky makes a good point about the proliferation of tutorials and youtube videos that use GW paints.  They're also excellent quality paints - don't let any trolls try to convince you otherwise.  Avoid the Army Painter set, in my opinion.  I've always found their paint disappointing.  There is also Scalecolor, which are kind of tricky to use but give very good results if used well, Instar, which seem to be cheaper paints, harder to find and I cannot vouch for their quality at all, and AK Interactive do a range of paints that are supposed to be very good, but again I'm not sure how easy they are to find.  You could go down the contrast paint route as well, of course.  

 

You mentioned wanting a set specifically for the box you bought, and this could be it - 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Games-Workshop-Sigmar-Paints-Tools/dp/B09B48TQDD/ref=asc_df_B09B48TQDD/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=535839708954&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16868122412905869772&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045355&hvtargid=pla-1410646367278&psc=1

 

You'd probably want to supplement it with a few extra paints (a more general-use green for one) but this should fit with the tutorials GW are putting out for the new Age of Sigmar box you've bought.  You'll probably want to get a better white paint (Vallejo Cold White is a good choice) and a couple more washes (Agrax Earthshade is fantastic.)

 

You'll need to get yourself a brush or two as well of course.  I always recommend Rosemary & Co as they have the best ratio of quality to price.

https://www.rosemaryandco.com/pure-kolinsky-pointed

 

If you want more in-depth tutorials from GW now you have to subscribe to Warhammer+ which has some cartoons, a library of old White Dwarfs, and masterclass tutorials from the excellent Louise Sugden.  Or you could sign up to Siege Studios' patreon where you will find loads and loads of text and audio tutorials some of which will soon be provided by me, unfortunately.  I can tell you which ones they are so you can avoid them and stick to the guys who know what they're doing, if you like.  :)

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8 hours ago, Curtis said:

Yeah, i was gonna pick up a starter set anyway because the basic colours are always very useful.

 

I was thinking about the necessary colours for this particular boxset.

 

It can obviously differ depending on the artists approach, but a rough guide/shopping list will certainly help given how many paints there are out there, from various manufacturers.

 

Yes, RIP wallet. :lol:


have a look at the citadel colour app and see what paints they recommend for these models. 
 

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That said I looked at an evocator and they recommend 28 paints to get it parade ready and 26 for a savage orruk.

 

If you buy 10 in GW you get the cheapest free.

 

If you want gold stormcasts then I’d get a can of the gold spray and then a pot of reikland fleshshade and a pot of auric armour gold for the armour, then whatever colour you want for robes.

Add on agrax, black, white and a silver.

 

For the orks - I’m going to do mine contrast, so spray them wraithbone, then pick one or two of the green contrasts to do the flesh, then use snakebite leather and wild wood on the brown bits along with some silver drybrush.

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I'm just working out my scheme/recipe now. You get quite a few spare bits, so I've tested various base coats and contrasts on the Hobgrots. For those I'm going Wraith Bone spray, then one coat of Aggaros Dunes, then one coat of Plaguebearer Flesh as a slight filter. I plan to shade down in the recesses and highlight up from there, but I'll see if I can be sensible and only do that on the Leaders. Really want to actually finish this set as a unified army.

 

For the Stormcast I'm going for the Hallowed Knights Scheme, as seen here:

 

 

 

I've primed the ones with helmets in Leadbelcher, but the ones with bare heads I've done in Grey Seer, as I plan to base coat the faces in Darkoath Flesh (having seen that in another JH Miniatures video). 

 

I've never used Leadbelcher spray before, and it's interesting to compare it to the free Stormcast I recently got which I primed in black and then damp-brushed in Leadbelcher. That one looks better to me, but of course I've not applied any contrasts or shades to the sprayed one yet, and the spray is much quicker of course.

 

B0AAA438-7F07-4737-9D5E-D631F44C0688.thumb.jpeg.8437856e8e08fad23f1601162e75ba7f.jpeg
 

C8A10606-0F22-4894-8F66-24F6092177C5.thumb.jpeg.cd753bb3fbec3b853af7e60a3890339f.jpeg

 

 

The Orruks I'm doing the same as you I think, just need to try out some different contrasts. 

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I’m doing my stormcast turquoise metal 

3C6A83FD-6D90-4193-9DEA-7CA85CC638A7.thumb.jpeg.07b9d059345fb894ebb26612948aadd1.jpeg

So far they’ve been sprayed leadbelcher, then all over with a 1:2 mix of terradon turquoise and contrast medium. 
next step is drybrush silver all over then go back and do details and robes with grey seer and magus purple. 
More care to be taken with Hq units. 

there’s lots of them though: 

DB3D9207-1A4B-448E-AD9D-2CFDF42F7A12.thumb.jpeg.4cc3452c4dde3d08bd5b815e79f9e333.jpeg

 

and that’s before dominion is built. 

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1 hour ago, And said:

I’m doing my stormcast turquoise metal 

3C6A83FD-6D90-4193-9DEA-7CA85CC638A7.thumb.jpeg.07b9d059345fb894ebb26612948aadd1.jpeg

So far they’ve been sprayed leadbelcher, then all over with a 1:2 mix of terradon turquoise and contrast medium. 
next step is drybrush silver all over then go back and do details and robes with grey seer and magus purple. 
More care to be taken with Hq units. 

there’s lots of them though: 

DB3D9207-1A4B-448E-AD9D-2CFDF42F7A12.thumb.jpeg.4cc3452c4dde3d08bd5b815e79f9e333.jpeg

 

and that’s before dominion is built. 

 

Nice!

 

I've still got a similar amount of "old" Stormcast too, so lots to play around with. 

 

I fucking love this scheme from my favourite Instagram painter:

 

19CB8B3B-404A-48B1-8857-CB1524B56ED2.thumb.png.552a77e1671b828ffa3a97467c623618.png

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23 hours ago, Davros sock drawer said:

Too kind :)

 

@MattKB I’m not trying to lure you onto my Instagram but I did a couple of videos showing exactly how I take and edit my photos:

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPSfMHlH9A_/?utm_medium=copy_link

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPP6-2Yne9n/?utm_medium=copy_link
 

Basically magnetic card, sprayed black, bookshelf in my kitchen with natural daylight, iphone 11pro, turn exposure down, take pic, crop, tweak the shadows and black levels, done :)

 

Still can’t get decent shots on a white background mind. 


Thanks for this. Great videos 

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Can anyone get the citadel colour system on the app to work? Mine just loads up the webpage with no content. 
 

Looking at some necron flayed ones but can’t find them on the model section of the app. Was hoping the colour system would have them. 

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I think I’ve stumbled upon quite a nice basic green skin recipe for the rank and file Orruks, from which I can shade/highlight further for leaders.

 

Its a bit long-winded but it’s simple enough - thin coat of Plaguebearer Flesh over the Wraithbone primer, with absolutely no pooling. This is just to tint/filter the base coat a light green. Then Aggaros Dunes over that, slightly heavier. Then finally Ork Flesh over that.

 

I found straight Ork Flesh to be a bit too minty, and the yellowy brown Aggaros stage provides a bit of variation that still shows through. You can see it most clearly on the arm here:

 

1DAA12D3-E0A2-4E6B-8318-B1CE0A8F09B7.thumb.jpeg.e54eb6bdad6049cca5deb224c62434ca.jpeg
 

It has the added advantage of being the same recipe as the Hobgrots, minus the Ork Flesh stage, and also I can do the ropes as well at the Aggaros stage :)

 

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paint apps? highly highly recommend the app Paintrack. not only does it have full libraries of all the main paint ranges, you can do cool things such as: scan the barcodes of your bottles to add them to your library, take a photo of a colour or screenshot and it will suggest closest match paints, it'll let you build your own paint inventory, suggests similar colours, complimentary and lots of fancy shit.  well worth the pro unlock.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.courageousoctopus.paintrack&hl=en_GB&gl=US

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/paintrack/id1490523130

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Davros sock drawer said:

 

1DAA12D3-E0A2-4E6B-8318-B1CE0A8F09B7.thumb.jpeg.e54eb6bdad6049cca5deb224c62434ca.jpeg
 

It has the added advantage of being the same recipe as the Hobgrots, minus the Ork Flesh stage, and also I can do the ropes as well at the Aggaros stage :)

 

 

Is this how you paint? Working in individual sections like above or is this just because you're developing your skin tones?

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To the masses: do you ever bother painting some parts, arms etc before assembly so it's easier to paint torsos/ Aquila on Marines? Is it more hassle than it's worth or is it just a necessary evil for some models/ poses?

 

Ta! 

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3 hours ago, idiwa said:

 

Is this how you paint? Working in individual sections like above or is this just because you're developing your skin tones?


Well yes, but generally the idea is you paint from the inside out - so in this case it’s ideal because the skin is the “deepest” part of the miniature, and also yes - I’m figuring out what I want the skin tone to be. I’m painting in batches for this box set, so I’ll do all the skin, then all the armour, clothes, then top details like metal studs and various trinkets.

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On 12/11/2021 at 00:45, Cocky said:

What paints you'd need depends on how you intend to paint and it might be worth thing about what your hobby goals are and how you intend to learn painting. My recommendation would be to go the gw route. It's the most expensive option but if you can afford it there are more resources available for how to use those paints including tutorials for the specific models in their white dwarf magazine as well has their youtube channel. The most difficult part of learning to paint is knowing how things are supposed to look at each stage and at the end. The gw tutorials are designed to maximize their profit minimize any uncertainty a beginner painter learning on their own may have whilst also teaching you the most important skills of layering and edge highlighting. At least the precontrast tutorials were, the more recent ones seem to be a bit simpler, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. 

Your post resonated with me and i've thought about it a lot. Even though i remember the fundamentals of miniature painting from almost 30 years ago, i thought it best i follow a strict tutorial for my entry back in. So i have watched various Youtube vids from different artists with regards to painting the Stormcast half of the boxset (for now), and the Duncan Rhodes one was by far the most thorough and entry-friendly.

 

So, i followed his exact recipe (aside from two of the unecessary highlight paints that he used at the end for the minute details like gems, that can be achieved by simply mixing paints), and i ordered the job lot (14 in total) along with 2 Raphael brushes. :eyebrows: 

 

I didn't realise posting/mailing spray cans was such a palava, so i'll pick up a Leadbelcher Spray next time i'm in the city. I happen to live 20 mins away from Nottingham, so i'll stick my head in the main store which i've not visited since i was a teenager, when i was obsessed with WH40K (still am).

 

I'm really excited about getting stuck back in. If i enjoy painting this army and they turn out well, i'll do the same process for the Orks. 

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4 hours ago, idiwa said:

To the masses: do you ever bother painting some parts, arms etc before assembly so it's easier to paint torsos/ Aquila on Marines? Is it more hassle than it's worth or is it just a necessary evil for some models/ poses?

 

Ta! 


It’s case by case. Some models yes, you should totally paint in sub assemblies as otherwise it’s impossible to reach certain bits.

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6 hours ago, idiwa said:

To the masses: do you ever bother painting some parts, arms etc before assembly so it's easier to paint torsos/ Aquila on Marines? Is it more hassle than it's worth or is it just a necessary evil for some models/ poses?

 

Ta! 

 

It depends on the miniature and whether you're bothered.  If a part of a model is covered by arms, then no-one is going to see it.  On the other hand, how do you do the bits partially covered by the arms that people can see?  I personally leave the arms off Space Marines who are holding their weapons across their chest to paint the aquila.  Bear in mind that glueing the arms on when a mini is fully painted can be incredibly difficult and stressful.  Any mistakes with the glue at that point could be disastrous.  There is no rule here, it's personal preference.

 

3 hours ago, idiwa said:

Any advice for cleaning brushes? Cold water and some Fairy Liquid and don't dry them standing vertical?

 

Or is the above crazy talk? Cheers.

 

If you're using sable brushes, shampoo is a good thing to use.  I've heard that Fairy Liquid can be too harsh and wash off the glue that holds the bristles on.  It's worth getting a block of brush soap, as it's cheap and a block will basically last you forever.

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