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Games Workshop, An Appreciation Thread


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Nah, I’ll figure something out. Even if I just paint them I’ll get my moneys worth. 
 

40k for me is like 98% build/paint/convert/plan and 2% actually play the game 

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Oh dear. App is updated (I can tell this because my lists be been deleted) but it’s also broken, I can take 2 heavy weapons per plague marine and it doesn’t see this as an issue. :doh:

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You say that but I’m just a bit perplexed by the rules changes. Sorry. This has turned into a bit of a stream of consciousness as I try and figure out how to get this to work. 

 

So you used to be able to take 5/7/10 marines in a unit and in each unit you could have a champion, 2 special weapons guys and 2 melee weapon guys. 


You could build your champ to be punchy or shooty or both. 
 

so if you wanted you could easily take a shooty squad of 5 with 3 plasma guns and 2 filler 

 

or a punchy squad with 3 CC weapons and 2 plague flamers or 2 fillers. 
 

Very easy to build. plus you could put 7 in a land raider with a lord of contagion and an elite and that was all 10 slots. They’re so expensive in points that in a smaller game you only want 2 or 3 squads anyway so you’ve room for other stuff. 
 

Now you can only have 5 or 10 in a squad. (They sell the marines in boxes of 7. Already this is a massive fail.)

 

The champ is basically the same. But now you can have loads of different options that are a bit harder to parse  

image.thumb.jpg.53fb26216357cfcc548dc988485d6f74.jpg

 

So if I want to build a punchy squad of 5 - if I’m reading this right , for every 5 models in a unit I can swap a bolter for any of those 5 melee weapons. So in a unit of 5 marines I can take a champ with a power fist, and 4 melee guys but they all have to have different weapons. Ok. So my gaming buddy now hates me as I roll 5 different guys worth of attacks. 
 

If I want a shooty squad of 5. 

I can give the champ a plasma gun

I can give one guy a launcher 

I can give one guy a sprayer

I can give one guy a plasma/melta/belcher

 

So this is written very differently but ends up again with 4 or 5 different weapon profiles in one squad of 5 and I’m still taking 15 minutes to resolve one units shooting. (I’m aware of the irony of complaining about having to play the game more)

Then factor in I own 11 built plague marines and 7 in a box.
The 11 have doubles of weapons between them which is now forbidden.
 

Spoiler

I had them set up for simplicity as :

1 shooty unit of

plasma champ

2 plasma

2 Bolter

 

1 close combat unit of

champ with fist and bolter

2x bubonic axe

spewer 

melta

 

these guys job is to pile out of a land raider with a lord and a blightspawn and biff people. 

 

and I have a spare blightlauncher guy  

I can technically use 2 axe marines in 2 squads but unless I build 2 punchy squads it’s a waste putting him in a shooty squad when he can’t shoot the weapon he doesn’t have. But I don’t think I have the right weapons in the box to max out 2 squads of fighters, I could buy another box which takes me to 25 marines but then I’m still not sure I’d be able to build legal squads. 

 

I love the dg models but one of the reasons I got rid of my army was that after assembling so many Plague marines they were just so crap, they were unusable. The last game I played with my dg was basically Morty plus characters and vehicles and one lot of plague zombies to fill out the troops requirement of a patrol. 
so when I heard they were getting 2 wounds I was delighted,  but this is just making it hard to play them. 
 

How can I build a couple of decent squads out of this. 
 

I have 18 models 

Do I do 1 squad of 10 with 2 x plasma 2x blightlauncher and 1 squad of 5 with all melee?

 

or do I try and get 3 squads and have one shooty, 1 with plague sprayers and one with all melee? 
 

BattleScribe won’t let me do a 10 man squad with 2 each of blight and sprayer, but I can make 2 x 5 man squads with 2 plasma, a blightlauncher and a plague sprayer and a vanilla dude. So 4 special weapons across 5 guys, but one is super short range. Hmm. Would dissuade charges I guess. 
 

If I want to dump some pain in my opponents face what goes in the land raider? Because now I either waste slots or need more elites to go in with a unit of 5. You want a blightspawn with your punchy guys to mess up enemy charges, plus his weapon is only 12” range so if you leave him on foot he’ll have to walk for 3 turns to get anywhere of any use. 
 

It sounds silly but I literally woke up at 4am with my brain trying to figure out the permutations. 

I like the aspect warrior approach of the primaris, everyone gets the same weapon apart from maybe the Sargeant. 1 unit of 5 intercessors, roll 10 dice at once. Job done. 


And yes. I am overthinking this. 

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The Plague Marine weapon change is a bit of a puzzler insofar as it complicates firing and melee with lots of individual rolls when GW's philosophy for 9th ed was to simplify and speed up the game. However it essentially means the Plague Marine boxset can be taken as a squad out of the box. The change has annoyed a lot of DG players if you read the DG facebook groups and reddits. Personally i should be fine, i don't think it'll cause me any problems model wise. 

 

You can take 7 plague marines in a squad but your weapon selection can only conform to the 5 man limit, the extra marines are bolter guys and are (in my mind at least) the first to die in the squad.

 

Also, if you read the DG facebook and reddit groups, a lot of people expect the "Lord of the Death Guard" keyword to be removed for the DP in the faq. I can't say either way and seems to be a glaring oversight if it happens on GW's part, but then they did faq the ability to take Forgeworld units in DG armies, despite setting aside a specific section for DG units in the book. So anything's possible...

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@martingee

 

I get they want to simplify things, so have thought ok, we sell a box, that's a unit, no need for people to scrounge up duplicate weapons.  Apart from 7 isn’t a multiple of 5 or 10.  So if you’re playing on power (which we tend to) rather than points you’re paying 6 power for 2 extra bolter guys.  Why not leave the option for 7 in the codex?
That can Fuck. Off. I’d take 2 lots of 5. 

 

Model Wise, I think i could make it work, but why not let players have the choice? if i want to run a squad of just flails or just sprayers, why not let me?  Primaris marines have now basicallly got a unit for each weapon type. You want all flamers - aggressors, snipers? sure get eliminators, meltaguns? get some eradicators. Want to run all plasma - go for hellblasters, etc etc.

 

But then they bring in the jealousy rule which is stupid given they launched a new lord and then limited how many lords you could take. Slow clap. I had a Lord of contagion, chaos lord, demon prince, and bought the new lord of virulennce. I now have 4 hq options and can only run one. :doh:
So now according to the codex you can take a lord plus a psyker, so either a plaguecaster, a model you can only buy as part of a £38 bundle (that used to be in dark imperium when you could buy all of dark imperium for less then £100, to expect £37.50 for 3 of the models seems like a massive pisstake, especially as you're just re-using a sprue in a new box) or a sorcerer in terminator plate that looks like a thousand sons model.

 
There are 6 options on the GW website for hq models. 5 of them can’t be taken together. You can't even buy either of the old Lords of contagion anymore (and by old like 3 years ago). Presumably because the models share a sprue with other bits. But the new poxwalker kit comes with half a marine on the sprue, so its not even consistent. I'd merrily buy a couple of copies of felthius and his cohort, if that was still buyable. But it isn't and his cohort is no longer in the codex 

It shouldn’t be this hard.

 

I'm not saying don't put stuff in the codex if you don't sell it, but don't make it impossible to run models from the last 5 years without providing an actual option to buy something else. 

  

I'd rather kitbash on extra plasma guns than try and manifest an entire new HQ lineup out of thin air.


And they’ve seemed to have nerfed the DP a fair bit. that jealousy rule deliberately singles out DP’s so I’d be surprised if it were removed. 

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5 minutes ago, And said:

@martingee apart from 7 isn’t a multiple of 5 or 10. So if you’re playing on power (which we tend to) rather than points you’re paying 6 power for 2 extra bolter guys.
That can Fuck. Off. I’d take 2 lots of 5. 
 

The jealousy rule is also stupid given they launched a new lord and then limited how many lords you could take. Slow clap. 
so now according to the codex you can take a lord plus a psyker, so either a model you can only buy as part of a £38 bundle (that used to be in dark imperium) or a sorcerer in terminator plate that looks like a thousand sons model. 
There are 6 options on the GW website for hq models. 5 of them can’t be taken together. It shouldn’t be this hard.

and they’ve seemed to have nerfed the dp a fair bit. that rule deliberately singles out DP’s so I’d be surprised if it were removed. 

True, I forgot about Power ratings, I usually play pts values.

 

The jealousy rule is an odd one as well, I have no idea whether taking multiple lords would be op but as you point out, DG don't have much in the way of HQ model choices. I don't really understand how some of the rules get through and the decisions behind them. The Forgeworld one was glaringly obvious, the jealousy one seemingly counter intuitive.

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4 hours ago, Ste_S said:

I've been enjoying Marco Frisoni's youtube painting videos, a rare combination of painting skill and presenting ability. Any other youtube recommendations?

 

Yeah, Marco's videos are fantastic.  I love what he does with oil paints, something I've been experimenting with a bit this year as it happens.  I also like the way he says, "Ello guyz!" at the start of every video.  I have a habit of saying, "Ello Marco!" back.  My wife and I watched his video on Blanchitsu last night and were both outraged by what he was able to create in under 40 minutes.  My wife has no particular interest in mini painting but she walked in while I was watching it and wanted to watch to the end.

 

Other similar channels - 

 

Trovarion - https://www.youtube.com/user/trovarion

This guy is an amazing painter, sometimes he lets his shelf full of Golden Demon trophies appear in shot.  He takes a pretty down to earth view of tutorials, and gives simple tips that will improve your painting.  Despite the trophey shots, he doesn't come across as being there to show off.  

 

Squidmar - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDvZTWvHZPTxJ4K1yTD2a1g

Much more of a youtuber, and often talks around the whole hobby of miniature painting rather than giving out painting tips.  So he'll have videos where he opens boxes of stuff, or pays several painters to paint the same model on Fiverr.  A lot of his actual tips are good though, and the videos are entertaining.

 

Angel Giraldez - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQVY6ZD9YjxwPzJqJ6DcHgA

One of the world's greatest painters.  His channel is fun, practical tips mixed with the opportunity to watch his amazing time-lapse videos of him creating unbelievable art in the space of 90 minutes.  He spends 90 minutes on a mini and creates something that I couldn't do in 90 hours.  It's infuriating, but hypnotic to watch.  His forced enthusiasm at the start of videos is hilarious as well.

 

Sergio Calvo - https://www.youtube.com/c/SergioCalvoMiniatures/videos

A lot of his stuff is only available through his patreon, but what's here is really good.  The presentation isn't quite as good as some of the others, as his videos take the form of his stream of consciousness over video of him painting, but the painting is so amazing, and his technique so unusual that it's worth checking out.

 

It's funny, sometimes the best painters don't make the best teachers, as some things that are completely natural and obvious to them might be impenetrable to the likes of us.  They might not understand how someone might not have such a perfect grasp of how light reflects off a surface, or balancing hot and cold colours, or volumes and levels and suchlike.  I remember getting some feedback from a superb painter on one of my miniatures and he mentioned that one part stood out too much in terms of volume and I still have no idea what he meant.  :)

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1 hour ago, martingee said:

True, I forgot about Power ratings, I usually play pts values.

 

The jealousy rule is an odd one as well, I have no idea whether taking multiple lords would be op but as you point out, DG don't have much in the way of HQ model choices. I don't really understand how some of the rules get through and the decisions behind them. The Forgeworld one was glaringly obvious, the jealousy one seemingly counter intuitive.

 

Yep, I think I've figure out a way to run around 1500 points worth, I take 2 Lords, 3x 5 man plague marine units, some poxwalkers, a blightspawn, bloatdrone, helbrute, blighthauler and a landraider. I can fit 10 marines with nasty stuff in the tank and then when they pop out you teleport in the 2 lords and spray everything in bogies before punching it to bits. Poxwalkers and 3rd marine unit hold the backfield and everything else is mobile enough to be adaptable, should be enough dakka to take on a wide range of stuff. 

The catch is you have to run it as 2 patrol detachments to have 2 lords. 

 

 

Sorry, I appreciate this is really fucking boring, I'm basically having an argument with myself. Its all completely moot anyway as I can't play and if i was able to get a game I'd probably use my marines...

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@feltmonkey I'm with you man, one painter I was watching was talking about toning down saturation and I was like u wot m8

 

that's why I like the method I'm copying at the moment: you base with your highlight and then add layers of shadow and grime and then strip it back to your highlight using alcohol or mineral spirits. Because you're dissolving with liquid, not completely removing it, it takes care of a lot of the blending for you.

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Finished another one. It's a bit(!) rough in places, but that's not surprising as I've painted him over 3 years in various ways.

 

But he's done. And done is better than not done.

 

That's this week's hobby promise done anyway. Will see if I can get ahead on next week's now. 

IMG_20210126_174742.jpg

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1 hour ago, Floshenbarnical said:

@feltmonkey I'm with you man, one painter I was watching was talking about toning down saturation and I was like u wot m8

 

that's why I like the method I'm copying at the moment: you base with your highlight and then add layers of shadow and grime and then strip it back to your highlight using alcohol or mineral spirits. Because you're dissolving with liquid, not completely removing it, it takes care of a lot of the blending for you.

 

That's a great technique, I use it from time to time, particularly on my occasional forays into painting death guard.  You're watching Zatcaskagoon's videos yeah?  That's another good channel actually.  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCj8X4YBgWcDQkPfqsLZJs9g  Again, a lot of his stuff is hidden behind the Patreon wall.

 

I don't know how much mini painting you've done over the years.  I know you've just recently got back into it, but your Marine posted earlier in the thread looks so good it makes me think you've done it before.  It can be important to learn a rounded set of techniques so you know how to edge highlight or whatever if you need to.  However, of course it's equally useful to pick a style and stick to it until you're an expert.  I've always flip-flopped from one method to another.  The last thing I painted I used nothing but oils, not for washes and such like how Zatcaskagoon does, but in a more traditional way like Marco Frisoni.  Now what I'm painting is by necessity all clean edge highlighting all over and I feel a bit out of practice.  There's also so many edges it feels like I'm painting a line a millimetre thick and a mile long, but that's another story.

 

As far as I'm aware, toning down saturation involves adding black, white, or grey to a colour so it is less bright, basically.  Which leaves me unsure how you highlight a saturated colour without desaturating it.  If you look at what I paint, you'll probably notice that I tend not to desaturate my colours much anyway.  I like all the bright colours!

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37 minutes ago, feltmonkey said:

 

That's a great technique, I use it from time to time, particularly on my occasional forays into painting death guard.  You're watching Zatcaskagoon's videos yeah?  That's another good channel actually.  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCj8X4YBgWcDQkPfqsLZJs9g  Again, a lot of his stuff is hidden behind the Patreon wall.

 

I don't know how much mini painting you've done over the years.  I know you've just recently got back into it, but your Marine posted earlier in the thread looks so good it makes me think you've done it before.  It can be important to learn a rounded set of techniques so you know how to edge highlight or whatever if you need to.  However, of course it's equally useful to pick a style and stick to it until you're an expert.  I've always flip-flopped from one method to another.  The last thing I painted I used nothing but oils, not for washes and such like how Zatcaskagoon does, but in a more traditional way like Marco Frisoni.  Now what I'm painting is by necessity all clean edge highlighting all over and I feel a bit out of practice.  There's also so many edges it feels like I'm painting a line a millimetre thick and a mile long, but that's another story.

 

As far as I'm aware, toning down saturation involves adding black, white, or grey to a colour so it is less bright, basically.  Which leaves me unsure how you highlight a saturated colour without desaturating it.  If you look at what I paint, you'll probably notice that I tend not to desaturate my colours much anyway.  I like all the bright colours!

 

I think the last mini I painted were my Cadian Guardsmen back in 2003, when I was 13. Before that I had some Catachan, and before that I had some Marines. I also painted all my friend's Tau at school because he had fine motor skill issues but was a legendary player and we had a No Grey Plastic rule amongst ourselves. They weren't bad for a 13-year-old, but the most sophisticated technique I had learned was drybrushing, and I used an ink wash once on my Catachan guardsmen's muscles. I kind of fell out of love with it because money, but also because the pinnacle at the time was the super clean 'Eavy Metal style and I thought it was super boring but had no imagination and no money to experiment and fuck up.

 

Then I see people like Zatcaskagoon and K03rnel doing all this filthy, gothic, highly weathered stuff using oils and reductive techniques and it just got me excited. Anyway thanks for saying a nice thing about my spess murren

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adding black or grey into your paint will not neccesarily desaturate your colour. adding black will darken your colour (value/luminance) adding some complimentary colour into the mix of the same value as your main colour will lower its saturation.

 

value is the range of a singular hue (all blues for example without adding green or purple tones) between its most brightest (closest to white while still being blue) or darkest point while still being blue.  some colours have a much broader value range than others and are thus easier to paint. - hence why people struggle with yellow and red paint schemes because they have such a narrow value range. and a lot of people paint these colours "incorrectly" or you end up getting red cloaks on space marines overhighlighted with orange when that's not typically the correct way of doing it.

 

fun fact - this is why ultramarines are the poster boys. Blue along with green to a slightly lesser extent, is one of the easiest colours to paint due to the vast range of colours within the same hue that are still blue.

 

This is something i teach my students early on. them being able to communicate their thought process in their painting is really important in them being able to grasp the "why" not just "how"

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Yeah red can be tricky, but its all in the "perception" how you look at the colour that matters. technically what may be "red" may not be actually red. Ive had the most success over the years starting most of my red recipes with a dark red brown. then highlighting up to red, then look at a dwarf flesh colour to peach the final final edge  highlights. then you need to look at cooling down the red a little with some purple glazing with say some ink. it's a method which Giuseppe Chiafele does extremely well wit hhis "ferrarri red" forgeworld blood angels like so:

image.thumb.png.bfd6d066a9acca324adf83928aa1058c.png

This model undoubtedly reads as "red" to the eye. but there shadows are pretty much a plum purple and the brightest most contrasty reds are peach. if you take this image into photoshop, and examine the colour picker, it never becomes "pure" red. ive had great success emulating this red workup with using the following paints
german red brown primer all over

ultra wide zenithal of dwarf flesh from game colour

high zenithal of pale flesh by vallejo

thin pyrole red ink over everything until you get a nice warm red.

if your red looks a little too saturated on the top, mix in some of the pale flesh into the ink and re-go over the top of the panels carefuly.

glaze / spray a muted violet ink over the lower panels.

 

This is what i did last year when i was practicing this:

https://www.instagram.com/p/B9juAHqHHZV/

since then i've refined the process a bit neater

 

however a model like this is more than just colour theory, you need to also look into how you're going to apply the colours.  this model doesnt use a strict zenithal method. it's too  complex and the artist needed to show the volumes of the shapes with individual COLOUR MODULATION pre shades. 

Note this model also doesnt use a black to white pre-shade becuase you'd blow out the models value range and you'd more easily get pinks and black browns rather than it reading as red.

this diagram fully explains why working with yellows, reds and oranges are difficult to highlight and shade

dbegjn6-7a6609ef-ad6a-4f4b-8f43-a6b9871f

 

so after that ramble, the best way to tackle red, is to start your red shade much darker and closer to a red brown so your highlight doesnt end up being too bright but firmly within the "red" bracket. i.e:

99120101266_BAMephistonLordofDeath01.jpg

 

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Great post.

 

Often red can look "right" with a final highlight that is actually orange as well.  The edge highlights on Mephiston's armour there are orange.  You can also see where it hasn't worked as well on the chest armour which is made up of a lot of ridges which have all been highlighted orange, leading to that armour piece reading as orange.  I'd guess it is the exact same tone as on the armour you can see on the arms and feet, but because there is a lot of the highlight colour in the area it changes how it appears overall.  However the very thin orange highlights on the feet and arms works very well.  

 

GW do actually have a great trio of paints for painting really nice reds as it happens - Mephiston Red which is a lovely deep red, Evil Sunz Scarlett which is a much brighter red, and Wild Rider Red which is really a very reddish orange.  Mephiston Red as the basecoat, with highlights in layers leading up through Evil Sunz to Wild Rider works very well.  You can add a bit of a flesh tone if you want to push it further, and shade by adding blue or (my preferred colour) dark green to the Mephiston Red.

 

Colour theory is wild.  If you paint an ork green, and then add a tiny touch of reddish brown into the deepest shadows on the miniature it's amazing how much more vibrant the green skin looks.  

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1 hour ago, feltmonkey said:

Colour theory is wild.  If you paint an ork green, and then add a tiny touch of reddish brown into the deepest shadows on the miniature it's amazing how much more vibrant the green skin looks.  


A touch of red to make greens look more green, if it was good enough for Constable it’s good enough for us.

 

(sorry the classic example of red green complementary I always remember getting is from The Hay Wain)

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So played a game yesterday and lost (again), I kept forgetting about the contagion stuff - mortatarion sucked up a huge amount of damage turn one, eating las cannon and meltas but was dead turn two. I did far better on points but I forgot some other basic things, but the ability to contaminate objectives for 3 victory points at the end of game was great.

 

 

I really need to design a flow chart for this game, as I made some bad errors and its hard to keep track of everything.

 

The upside is that it was the closest game I had played, still not won a game in 2 years though.

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Flow chart is a great idea. 

I started to make a sort of cheat sheet for my Marines, playing as white scars, to remember stuff like key stratagems and the doctrines for each turn etc. 
I should do a nurgle one too. 
 

how was TTS? Did it take forever?

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I had a cheat sheet for my Sylvaneth when I played Age of Sigmar, but in the end what I always did was forget to even use the cheat sheet, as I got caught up in the spectacle of it all.  I generally pick the most cinematic or spectacular thing to do over any strategic thinking.  I'm probably quite a good opponent as I will always lose, and pick strategies that make it more likely that I will lose, but have a blast doing so anyway.  You do have to put up with me making a lot of the noises from the battle though.

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1 hour ago, And said:

Flow chart is a great idea. 

I started to make a sort of cheat sheet for my Marines, playing as white scars, to remember stuff like key stratagems and the doctrines for each turn etc. 
I should do a nurgle one too. 
 

how was TTS? Did it take forever?

 

40k always takes hours, probably about a 4 hour game. I think it would have been a little quicker in person but not massively so, I am a big fan of the disgustingly resilient changes. The game yesterday did highlight that the list I took really lacked firepower, I think next time I'll drop morty and whack in three blighthaulers.

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one of the biggest issues i have with 40k is all the bullshit rules that you can use throughout a game and commands etc. them locked inside pages of the fucking book that you must memorise is a huge barrier to game speed. The data cards are a good thing but even then, those should be mandatory inclusions with the codex and in the box for any unit purchased if that has any specific rules.   like the mortarion model should come with a datacard with his wounds, damage profile and special rules on it you can put at the foot of the game board along with all the other units you have in the game. like you have in say... Xwing

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3 hours ago, Nicky said:

one of the biggest issues i have with 40k is all the bullshit rules that you can use throughout a game and commands etc. them locked inside pages of the fucking book that you must memorise is a huge barrier to game speed. The data cards are a good thing but even then, those should be mandatory inclusions with the codex and in the box for any unit purchased if that has any specific rules.   like the mortarion model should come with a datacard with his wounds, damage profile and special rules on it you can put at the foot of the game board along with all the other units you have in the game. like you have in say... Xwing

 

You would hope the 40K app would solve that.... but then it's a bag of shite.

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On 26/01/2021 at 16:13, feltmonkey said:

 

Yeah, Marco's videos are fantastic.  I love what he does with oil paints, something I've been experimenting with a bit this year as it happens.  I also like the way he says, "Ello guyz!" at the start of every video.  I have a habit of saying, "Ello Marco!" back.  My wife and I watched his video on Blanchitsu last night and were both outraged by what he was able to create in under 40 minutes.  My wife has no particular interest in mini painting but she walked in while I was watching it and wanted to watch to the end.

 

Other similar channels - 

 

Trovarion - https://www.youtube.com/user/trovarion

This guy is an amazing painter, sometimes he lets his shelf full of Golden Demon trophies appear in shot.  He takes a pretty down to earth view of tutorials, and gives simple tips that will improve your painting.  Despite the trophey shots, he doesn't come across as being there to show off.  

 

Squidmar - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDvZTWvHZPTxJ4K1yTD2a1g

Much more of a youtuber, and often talks around the whole hobby of miniature painting rather than giving out painting tips.  So he'll have videos where he opens boxes of stuff, or pays several painters to paint the same model on Fiverr.  A lot of his actual tips are good though, and the videos are entertaining.

 

Angel Giraldez - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQVY6ZD9YjxwPzJqJ6DcHgA

One of the world's greatest painters.  His channel is fun, practical tips mixed with the opportunity to watch his amazing time-lapse videos of him creating unbelievable art in the space of 90 minutes.  He spends 90 minutes on a mini and creates something that I couldn't do in 90 hours.  It's infuriating, but hypnotic to watch.  His forced enthusiasm at the start of videos is hilarious as well.

 

Sergio Calvo - https://www.youtube.com/c/SergioCalvoMiniatures/videos

A lot of his stuff is only available through his patreon, but what's here is really good.  The presentation isn't quite as good as some of the others, as his videos take the form of his stream of consciousness over video of him painting, but the painting is so amazing, and his technique so unusual that it's worth checking out.

 

It's funny, sometimes the best painters don't make the best teachers, as some things that are completely natural and obvious to them might be impenetrable to the likes of us.  They might not understand how someone might not have such a perfect grasp of how light reflects off a surface, or balancing hot and cold colours, or volumes and levels and suchlike.  I remember getting some feedback from a superb painter on one of my miniatures and he mentioned that one part stood out too much in terms of volume and I still have no idea what he meant.  :)

 

Thanks for all of those! Lots of stuff to look at.

 

I've been painting an Imperial Fists terminator to get my eye back in using the oil paint technique for highlights and shading. The armour looks great, however I've since discovered my eyesight is shot and I need +3 instead of +2 reading glasses... hence the details look rubbish! Hopefully my second mini will be better with some stronger glasses on. 

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