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Games Workshop, An Appreciation Thread


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Thanks!  That was the look I was going for.  I bounce around styles a bit, but I wanted this to look as close to an Eavy Metal piece as I could.  I wanted it to look like Darren Latham painted it.  I also wanted to achieve this without using an airbrush at all, so all the blending is done with a brush.  I didn't even prime with an airbrush.  I tell you what though - freehand painting circular chapter symbols is tricky.  The circle around the edge was a million times harder than the fist part.

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2 hours ago, feltmonkey said:

I painted this marine a while ago, as an exercise in painting a very clean, precise, Eavy Metal style, and in proving I could paint the dreaded colour of yellow.  The chapter symbols are freehand.

 

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As this was being entered into the Dakkadakka halloween challenge, my wife knocked up a horror movie poster to explain why it fit the theme :D - 

 

1568348672_Yellowmovieposter(1)resize.thumb.jpg.e9f208111d3c0a50ca9faa4a5653e3a2.jpg

 

 

Shit hot!

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I never understood why yellow is such a bogeyman of a colour. I think I can paint it as poorly as any other colour. Apart from red. I really don’t like painting red, which is my excuse for not having started my space hulk box. 

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The problems people seem to have with it are if they try to paint it over black primer, or are unsure how to shade it.  If you try to paint Averland Sunset over Chaos Black primer, then shade it with Agrax Earthshade, it's not going to look great.  Personally, I think I find white and orange to be problem colours.  

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people struggle becuase a lot of yellow paints are extremely translucent and end up looking a manky green over greys and blacks etc. Paints such as averland sunset which is also a yellow is very flat and dull but has great coverage. the tip is never to paint a pure process yellow over white as its pretty much always going to look cold, which is why personally i paint it over skin tones. If you try it over a pure pink base you end up with rhubarb and custard marines.

 

all of the narrow band value colours like Oranges, Reds, yellows are tricky because you either go too dark - at which point you veer into a nother colour family entirely, or you overbrighten and it becomes another colour entirely. the spectrums of red, yellow and orange all share a very tight combined hue band and their value points all stack neatly together. Compare this to say... blue which if you have a dark blue it's still "blue" if you hvae a pale blue its still blue. the value range of blues and greens and toa lesser extent purples are crazy wide. Reds are very very narrow. oranges too.

Ive been painting red blood angels lately and my recipe is German Red Brown basecoat all over. a mid tone flesh colour for a wide zenithal, then point highlights with a pale flesh colour. all over with a translucent red ink.  If i did this over a base of Black to white, it'd be far too stark and the colours wouldn't be right. my dark shadows would be dark dark brown and my highlights would be pink, but by clipping my value pre-shade to be redbrown to warm pale skin, i have controlled my red highlights and shadows while still being red. Colour science and theory is great fun.

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8 hours ago, feltmonkey said:

I painted this marine a while ago, as an exercise in painting a very clean, precise, Eavy Metal style, and in proving I could paint the dreaded colour of yellow.  The chapter symbols are freehand.

 

DSC_9046a.thumb.jpg.1e9a28a147c02e9737c851778b85a0ab.jpg

 

DSC_9039a.thumb.jpg.3fd3f0df510bac61e1c92f480e60fb29.jpg

 

DSC_9043a.thumb.jpg.351898b6710544bbc9053688c831f8c1.jpg

 

DSC_9041a.thumb.jpg.70e19eee562732f9d9a8b45f6c1eb5a9.jpg

 

As this was being entered into the Dakkadakka halloween challenge, my wife knocked up a horror movie poster to explain why it fit the theme :D - 

 

1568348672_Yellowmovieposter(1)resize.thumb.jpg.e9f208111d3c0a50ca9faa4a5653e3a2.jpg

 

 


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I finally finished my giant Abaddon, GW so I thought I’d show him off in here too

 

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Not a great photo I know, but was taken just after I finished him.  Those chains almost ended me, each one too 30-40 mins to cut and position.

 

I took some better photos of the lovely details on the sculpt at the weekend, Instagram links as to not flood the thread with photos

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CINzROBn2PB/?igshid=7tzeg26brmh8

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CINztniHjVj/?igshid=1lw38fye8xc1n
 

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13 hours ago, Nicky said:

Ive been painting red blood angels lately and my recipe is German Red Brown basecoat all over. a mid tone flesh colour for a wide zenithal, then point highlights with a pale flesh colour. all over with a translucent red ink.  If i did this over a base of Black to white, it'd be far too stark and the colours wouldn't be right. my dark shadows would be dark dark brown and my highlights would be pink, but by clipping my value pre-shade to be redbrown to warm pale skin, i have controlled my red highlights and shadows while still being red. Colour science and theory is great fun.

 

 

I’m really intrigued by this technique @Nicky.  I have come across a painter, Delaney King, who produced some really interesting effects by painting a zenithal highlight base coat and then colouring with translucent washes. It’s something I would like to try one day (although I am not sure I am talented enough!). 

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21 hours ago, feltmonkey said:

I painted this marine a while ago, as an exercise in painting a very clean, precise, Eavy Metal style, and in proving I could paint the dreaded colour of yellow.  The chapter symbols are freehand.

 

DSC_9046a.thumb.jpg.1e9a28a147c02e9737c851778b85a0ab.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The thing I love about this (apart from the everything) is just how neat it looks. You mentioned Darren Latham in your subsequent post, and it's something another Youtuber commented on in relation to him in a video I recently watched - that he is just incredibly neat. 

 

It's something I'd really like to get good at, because whilst I think I have a reasonable amount of skill now, it's all rather hit and miss and for want of a better word "flukey". I watched a video of Latham speed painting a Space Marine, and it was obvious to me that he must have painted hundreds, if not thousands of these. He didn't even need to think about the edge highlights, never mind going outside the lines. And my brain says "Looks easy, I could do that", but my hands say "Lol, u wot mate?!", because I've only  painted maybe 20-30 models to around 75% completion, and only 4 or 5 to (what I am calling for now) 100%.

 

Regardless, that precision, that neatness in execution, is admirable, and you have nailed it here (and that's without even mentioning the "clever" stuff, like the battle damage, freehand stuft, etc, etc)

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Thanks, @MrEm, @moosegrinder, @The Bag and @Davros sock drawer  :D

 

Yeah, neatness is the thing when you're painting that style.  It's not necessarily that important overall, you can be "messy" and produce incredible work - look at the work of John Blanche.  For the most part, edge highlights are an important part of mini painting, albeit an intimidating one, and one it's very easy to get wrong.  Highlights that are too stark or too thick can look wrong, and look like some kind of trim instead of light reflecting off edges.  Edge highlights that go all the way around armour panels with zero variation are also an easy trap to fall into.  This is something I've never really liked about some GW stuff.  The tops of things should be lighter than the bottoms, in my opinion.

 

To actually do edge highlights, don't use the point of the brush.  You'll never get it sharp or straight enough.  Use a small amount of paint on the brush, use a brush with no unruly bristles, and use the side of the brush against the very edge of the armour panel.  Just carefully drag the brush along there so it's just barely touching, and be careful not to hit any other part of the model.  That's all there is to it a lot of the time.  Things like the edges of shoulder pads aren't all that tricky as you only touch that very edge.  It's something you have to practice, but you can absolutely do it.  In your case, Davros, haven't you shown us pictures of tiny details in cockpits you painted?

 

Of course, while many people will tell you you absolutely need to have edge highlights, there are no hard and fast rules to anything in art.  I don't think Nicky uses them, for example, and his stuff always looks amazing.  It's definitely worth making the effort to learn how to do it well so you can choose for yourself.  

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Yes, I can pull off some fine detail work, but where I struggle is with things like cloaks, where I find it difficult to both identify the correct point to highlight, and to physically hit the target, so to speak. Cockpit interiors tend to have lots of sharp edges, and also you can’t see them when the fuselage is closed up anyway, so mistakes matter less.


The other thing is that I get to a certain point through experimentation where I think something looks great, but them I’m not sure how to bring it to a conclusion. For example, with this unfinished Spirit Torment, the skulls in his cloak have taken on a sort of dodgy VHS grain to them that I really like.


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But I am scratching my head about what highlights etc I need to do now, as I don’t want to lose the effect. It also needs tidying up, which I find I’m doing a lot - chasing my tail due to a lack of precision.
 

I have a whole bunch of Stormcast minis painted up to the point where I need to do final layering and highlights, so I’m planning to use those to practice “proper” techniques and “official” colour schemes. Then I have another bunch which aren’t yet painted, and for those I’m going to start trying to come up with my own schemes, using what I’ve learned so far. And then I want to do some Space Marines! I’m hoping that all the practice will mean I can do them justice.

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Well, regarding the cloak, it doesn't look like you need any more highlights at all.  It looks fantastic!  I'm with you on the grain, that looks really cool, and I love the colours.  If you are going to do more highlights, just do a few tiny ones on the lightest areas.  Perhaps on the skull faces.  You don't need to edge highlight the ridges in a cloak, in case that's what you were thinking of doing.  You can highlight them, but it looks like you've already done so.  Also, is it just the photo, or have you already got some really great looking edge highlights on the metallic areas?

 

I think you might be overthinking things a bit.  If I'd painted that I'd be really pleased with it.  It's blummin great.  The only part I can see that you might need to finish off is the hourglass, and that only needs a couple of silver highlights around where you can see the light falling in the photo itself.

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That’s really helpful, thank you! I was thinking that the highest points of the folds might need highlights but you’re right - if I’m happy with the look I should stop.

 

Haven’t done any shading or highlights on the Balthazar gold yet, but yes I’ve picked out some of the other metal bits with some silver. I find doing the little chain links very satisfying.

 

Front View:
 

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There’s some mess where the dark greenish bits meet the white cloak tips, but otherwise I think I’ll leave it alone. Just the base and bronze areas to do then.

 

Thanks for the tips and encouragement!

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I’m going up to Rochester on Sunday to buy a couple models for when I get my airbrush on Christmas Day. I’ve been practicing with oils on pieces of wood and watching Grimdark Compendium vids on YT. Really don’t like a lot of ‘Eavy Metal style models so looking forwards to griming up some models with oils and inks. 

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Mixing it up a bit by trying to finish this guy. I mean, I should, seeing as it’s the reason I started dabbling again, but it’s fallen by the wayside in favour of shiny new plastic.

 

I’m quite pleased with the skin, but I really don’t know what to do with the feathers. Any suggestions for a nice contrasting colour? 
 

FC5E4870-9148-476B-88E9-014DFFC897C6.thumb.jpeg.e9ae732b06ee8f1186bff71885795fa5.jpeg

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17 hours ago, Davros sock drawer said:

Mixing it up a bit by trying to finish this guy. I mean, I should, seeing as it’s the reason I started dabbling again, but it’s fallen by the wayside in favour of shiny new plastic.

 

I’m quite pleased with the skin, but I really don’t know what to do with the feathers. Any suggestions for a nice contrasting colour? 
 

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maybe keeps the feathers a neutral shade, a grey-white, with a red stripe or two?

 

Got this dude from my work secret Santa, so basing and priming him.

 

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