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Games Workshop, An Appreciation Thread


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8 hours ago, gizmo1990 said:

Thanks for that guys. I wasn’t in a rush plus funds are tight so I was hoping to place a made to order.

Wayland games seem to be offering the box via the made to order scheme for a very reasonable £100. Probably too reasonable!? Has anyone any experience of using them? It seems too good to bed true..


I think Wayland are one of the biggest indie retailers so  that's probably something to do with it.




16k+ reviews on Trust Pilot so you'll be fine.

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I think I hate washes. Almost certainly because I can't use them right.273363434_deathguard1.thumb.jpg.8423d682856d2a205834696c2d7126b8.jpg


^this guy has some Nuln Oil on him on the green but not the purple. I've put something on the bones but it was months ago and I forget what it is, maybe Agrax Earthshade. I also went back and started rusting up the gun, SO I regret making the gun body same as the armour now.





^this guy was the first one I 'finished' (which on refelction isn't finished, I'm just lazy)  but have also gone back to rust up the weapons and add highlights and what not, I tried an experiment with a cocktail stick making rivulets of rust on his leg there but I've no idea how I feel about it. The wash is a green one I forget the name of and the purple was was some Scale 75 one I got ages ago. I hate how dark it's made the figure. In all honesty when I've done some more DG I'm probably going to strip this and start all over again because I like the figure but I did so many things wrong because it's the first I'd done to this stage of completion in decades. I've learned a lot doing these, mainly by getting them wrong of course.

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your whole thing is to make it nice and vibrant. you CAN use nuln oil for this for dark shadows recesses but you're trying to keep that comic book vibe and although you can use the following info to do what youve done over nuln oil, using a green shade will keep that saturated colour, but have much warmer and vivid shadowed areas.  There are green washes which would have kept your saturation. Biel Tan Green - for pure green. Coelia Greenshade for a jade wash, and athonian camoshade for an olive green. for your model, a biel-tan green wouild be good. When it comes to your purple. the same deal applies. only this time Druchii purple wash. aim for the crevaces. clean up the purple then highlight up using the method below.


I cant stress how highly you should probably be really looking at some of the warhammer community videos on youtube of how to paint clean vibrant models. your wash isnt really an allover application. you want to be focusing it on recesses and bolts etc. then you will go back in with your original green paint, and tidy up the larger flatter areas to bring them back to being nice and clean. keeping the dark recesses washed increasing your contrast.


You cant really hope to apply a full all over wash to a model and keep it looking nice and neat which appears to be your current crux in painting. The overwhelming desire to be perfect. You can only really keep your models clean if you're doing an allover wash with an oil medium as opposed to acrylic, so forget that for now, as you need to nail the basic core of how to paint models. think of painting as seperate layer processes. just slap y our base coats  down, don't try to be neat with every brush stroke, as the further along the process you get, you tidy these things up naturally with your shade, cleanup and highlighting. for MONTHS at first i'd make sure i'd do my shoulderpads nreally neat totally oblivious that i had trim to paint AFTER the fact over the top, only frustrating myself and wasting time.


follow this basic process in your painting for everything you do:

base coats

recess washes

tidy up any messes with your base coat

apply a slight highlight colour over the wider raised areas like ridges and domes, fingers etc. you dont want this to be TOO disimilar from your base green

final highlight, a full step up in brightness from your original tone more in luminance than saturation, and apply it to the very very tips of triangle edges, hard pointy edges etc less is more when it comes to this.


silver paint do with nuln oil, highlight up the same as above

Gold paint wash with a warmer wash like a fleshtone. highlight like above then on the tips add a dab of silver.

brass as gold above

bronze use agrax earthshade


unless at this stage you have reason to do otherwise, keep your washes in the same colour as your base colours.


This may have sounded mean and blunt and im not trying to be. Ive seen you work on these things for months and months, but i reckon you need to know why you're doing the steps you're doing and getting the results you're getting. I really like the pallete you've got going on, but I can see how much better it'll be when you nail the fundamentals of painting miniatures.

Painting is relaxing, and you shouldnt be getting pissed off and frustrated. The first step in doing this is to spend some time and watching and taking notes on things like this


Some videos:

a guy painting salamanders using a slightly different technique, but salamanders are green:

Heres Warhammers video on painting space marines. although its blue, adjust your pallete accordingly.


spend an afternoon just watching these and other guides on basic paiting technique and you'll have a much better time. You can do this and i can visualise what you're trying to do and its going to be great you've just got to know how to get there :)

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...there's no way I can do edge highlights like that. I'm too ham fisted. I also wreck my brushes so easily. I mean, I'm gonna try (and probably buy new brushes) but that's more intimidating than anything else. I think a lot of the frustration I feel comes from me not being as steady as I think I should be. Anyway, that salamanders video was interesting and I see the process you put down now. I'm not going to be able to get to painting until the end of the week anyway so I'll just consume videos for now.


Also I have a terrible habit of not finishing anything in one sitting because I faff and fanny and have to keep correcting shit. I understand that you should just get the base colours down and clean them up later, I just don't think anyone understands how cack handed I actually am.

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i was mega shit at edge highlighting when i was fairly new to things. i mena MASSIVELY terrible. to paint edge highlights, try using the edge of the brush rather than trying to draw lines, you could also watch the 2nd video and see how subltle drybrushing can get you pretty damn close. when i say subtle, i mean take 99% of the paint off your brush. basically so you take the paint off, rub it on your hand, if paint comes off your brush you have too much on. dont discount drybrushing as a noob technique. solid and proper drybrushing is a foundation of how to stipple properly and proper stippling is glorious.

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I was just randomly thinking the other day... with GW/ WH40K being popular in North America and Australia are they using metric for all measurements of sticking with Imperial (lulz)?


I've not played anything since WHFB and the first edition of WH40k RougeTrader so for all I know its all metric now. God knows why this popped into my head.



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On 10/08/2020 at 14:06, Nicky said:

You cant really hope to apply a full all over wash to a model and keep it looking nice and neat which appears to be your current crux in painting

You sort of can, but have to water the wash down and use multiple coats almost like a glaze.


A gloss varnish coats helps loads before washes also if you’ve got the time or inclination to do that.

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5 hours ago, Ste_S said:

You sort of can, but have to water the wash down and use multiple coats almost like a glaze.


A gloss varnish coats helps loads before washes also if you’ve got the time or inclination to do that.


Yeah I didn't want to contradict Nick who's a professional painter, but I think I depends what standard you are going for. Much of my painting is heavily washed then dry brushed, mainly as I do quite a lot of it pissed as a fart. I make an effort for characters but bog standard infantrymen don't get a huge amount of attention, but look good enough from 3 feet away.


Like this guy is 1W and basically going to die the second a Marine looks at him, but he's good enough for what he does.





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Charity shop find! High Marshal Helbrecht

I find so little of this stuff in charity shops, I’d have thought it would be more prevalent with parents clearing out kids stuff. I seem to come across more old codexes if nothing else. Any finds from anyone else?




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I got a pile of Tau stuff last year. One of the really big robots, a tank, and a couple of smaller robots. That was pretty cool, although I haven't done anything with it as I have a lingering feeling that there's probably a sad story as to how such a collection of stuff ended up in a charity shop. 


One thing you see popping up in charity shops is a group of four boxes - Primaris Marines, Stormcast Paladins, a pack with paints and Easy to Build Primaris, and I think the First Strike box. This specific combination of boxes comes up so often that it must have been some kind of retailer special. 

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And last batch of 2nd ed space wolves arrived:




I need to source some weapon sprues and sort out Bjorn's missing lightning claw, but that will happen. Now all I need are a pack of grey hunters and Gnarl and I'm set.

Also, when you get second hand minis and find out a bit more about the seller than you really needed to know.





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Plague Idiot 02. This guy has had some nuln oil (I think) lightly applied and then edge highlighted. He was 'finished' but now he isn't because there's so much more I can do. Gonna get some of the bits @Nicky mentioned and I might even look at basing them.

I'd quite like to base them with something like grass or something organic and make the area around their feet look dead, like their very touch is poison but that may be waaaaaaay out of my skill zone.

plague idiot 01.jpg

plague idiot o2.jpg

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