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Fretnoise

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Everything posted by Fretnoise

  1. I assume you've all seen this? They'll build you one for about £250k...
  2. Ooh. Suggests you’ll be able to dispose of some of those Honda Rally cars you racked up during the menu glitch
  3. This looks quite interesting. Apparently, GT7 does send out telemetry data over the network they just haven't told anyone about it. Some clever bod has figured out how to consume it: It's a bit limited with the data being broadcast, but looks interesting at least.
  4. Strange races last night. I seemed to be in a class of my own, which is not as positive as it sounds, since that class was about a second a lap off the leading pace, and a second a lap faster than the group behind, so I was basically running on my own for much of the night once the first lap shenanigans had settled down. I did have a decent scrap with Baukster in the Gr3s though, right up until the pitstop where it transpired he'd gambled on underfueling / not refueling at all and then had to save loads of fuel in the last few laps so he was a bit of a sitting duck. Running in my own class did mean I wasn't affected by the lag too much, but it was certainly pretty bad. You can hear people closing in behind by the sounds their tyres make as they twerk along the straights... Also - I actually find it quite unsettling to follow someone who's doing that jerky / twerky thing. Makes me feel a bit motion sick, I suppose because the track is behaving properly and the cars are all over he place. Not nice. My fibre broadband should be turning up at some point in the next month or so - I'll give hosting a try when it's in. Aggregated tips for the new Time Trial (mine, @Junker's and @Shimmyhill's from last night and upthread): Dab the brakes and throw it into the first sequence of turns. Take lots of curb. Use the brakes to unsettle the rear of the car into turn 4 (left hander through the tunnel) to get a nice tight line. Don't use 2nd gear - 3rd is better out of the slow corners, 4th even if you can manage it. Don't use 6th gear on the back straight. Really focus on getting the right line through the last chicane - sacrifice the first part so that you can straighten up and get on the power early to the finish. Yeah, that'd be annoying. I think a 2:10.8 would push me back into silver...
  5. Rude! Anyway, in the spirit of doing one thing at a time, I had a fairly long session last night after doing nothing other than getting all the dust, hair and other assorted gunk out of the pedals... and they were fine. My current hypothesis is that the grounding connection from the hall effect sensor to the accelerator pedal itself was so gunked up that it wasn't actually grounding it any more. 3 hours of Dragon Trail races, Fuji time trialing, and then the boy did a 50% race in F1 22... no recurrence. I thought the magnetic sensors were supposed to be maintenance-free...
  6. Yup. To use it in the TT mode you have to first find the replay and add it to your collection (I did this by going to your profile page and looking at your shared items), and then once you're in the TT mode you go to Settings > Ghost Settings and then the first option is "Load Ghost". You need to have added it to your collection before you start as you can't just search here because Music Rally was more important... (Edit: testing this on a pad, you're out of sight by half way around the long right hander after the flick left...)
  7. Yep - short shifting and a touch of lift and coast into the final chicane. Even flat out the 911 was getting murdered on the straights though.
  8. Fine, I'll make it all messy again! Thanks both - I spent my lunch break taking the top off, cleaning a load of dust and lint and stuff, and re-distributing the grease on the various greasy bits (and doing a couple of laps to make sure I hadn't made it worse). It's clear that the clutch and accelerator electronicy bits are identical, held on by 2 screws each, and are attached to the main board by sensible plugs and sockets, so swapping them around won't be too much of a problem if I need to, but will do the cables first.
  9. Nice It's certainly a bit of a workout. Thanks for the tips in the chat last night. I'm only about 3 seconds behind you now! Excellent "Back to basics" races last night - thanks @McSpeed. Despite taking special notice of the start procedure and knowing it was a false start check, I still managed to treat the first start like a normal start and got an immediate penalty - yay! Nice racing though with decent chases of everyone who streamed past me at the start. Gr4s into the night at Red Bull Ring - "simply lovely", as someone might say. You even managed to get some smog onto the track as if those bloody flares hadn't quite cleared - nicely done Gr3s at Spa. The Porsche doesn't seem quick enough, but it did let me do a fairly easy 1 stop, so kept me in contention for a decent mid-table finish. I got scared on the last lap and backed out thinking I might make an extra final lap that I didn't have the fuel for, so surrendered a position, but hey ho. And then my pedals started playing up - see my longer post in the Rllmuk Racing Wheel thread - any ideas gratefully received.
  10. Wow - long post, sorry. TLDR; my T-LCM pedals are playing up - any ideas? Anyone had issues with Thrustmaster pedals? Specifically the T-LCM loadcell set, with a T300 wheelbase and PS5. They use Hall Effect Sensors so I thought my days of struggling with accelerator pedals were over, but apparently not. Last night, after roughly 3 hours of driving, the accelerator stopped responding. After a little while, if I pushed it down slightly it would start reading 100% and stay like that for about 2 seconds before going back to 0 and unresponsive. A few seconds later it would respond and go back to 100% for about 2 seconds, and then back to 0. Rinse and repeat. The time it stays stuck at 100% seemed to be constant. It wouldn't then go back to 100% until I moved the pedal. Brake and clutch were (mostly) unaffected - I'll get to that in a minute. I could get it back to normal by disconnecting the brake cable from the wheelbase and reconnecting. It would behave for a few minutes and then start again. I noticed one instance of the brake pedal playing up too, but in a different way - I had to save a video of the gameplay to see it, but it very briefly (i.e. for one frame) registered 100% braking when I was nowhere near the brake pedal (half way down the main straight at Fuji...) Only really noticed by the engine note and the fact my ghost started drifting ahead. That's only happened once (that I've noticed) so far, so I'm ignoring it for now. So... theories... Firmware? I updated to the latest wheelbase firmware last night, but it was still happening afterwards. There's no firmware as such for the pedals, it's all bundled in with the wheelbase. Heat? It was hot last night and it only started happening after a few hours of use, so maybe they started to overheat? Why would disconnecting and reconnecting 'fix' it for a bit though? Static? Just something I've read online. Perhaps the pedals need grounding? Cable routing? I fairly recently cable-managed the wheelbase power, usb and pedal cables together so they're all ziptied together and there are fewer messy cables hanging about. I've since read that usb and power should be routed separately to avoid interference. I'd expect general 'noise' on the signal if that was the case though, rather than sporadic 'on / off' behaviour. Just a faulty sensor? I've considered swapping the clutch and accelerator sensor. Or even just swapping the entire pedal assemblies around as you can electronically swap the pedals around by holding a secret button combo. I never use the clutch. My dodgy USB cable repair? A few months ago my puppy chewed the wheelbase's USB cable. I soldered it back together, and it seems fine. One of the reasons for the cable management approach was to take stress away from my soldered repair so it's kind of folded over so that any strain is taken by the zipties. I guess the repair could be giving way? All inputs and FFB are fine when the problem's not happening though, and I can't provoke the issue by fiddling with the repaired section, so I don't think it's shorting or anything... Any other ideas?
  11. I've still got the 2 pedal set hanging about that would be good enough to tide you over till a loadcell pops up. (Edit: Thrustmaster)
  12. FYI I was really lucky and managed to get a T300 (from a fellow 'mukker) for £160 and the loadcell pedals for £100 from a certain MNRC'er, so just a few quid more than I originally spent on the G29.
  13. The T300 is a definite step up from the G29 imo. Far less notchy and better FFB, including some vibration-type effects (front end slip) which are simply missing from the G29. The 2-pedal set of pedals you get as standard are a bit rubbish - you’d want either the load cell or standard 3-pedal set (both of which use Hall effect sensors rather than potentiometers so no dreaded pedal flutter like with the G29) And then you can obviously go down the rabbit hole of swappable rims… I’ve got an open-wheel formula-style one coming soon
  14. I'm getting all the Hondas because although I fully expect you won't be able to sell gift cars for money, I also fully expect that to be bugged on release so will be cashing in all but one Honda for 300k each
  15. I've got my Chevy-powered MX-5 and 911-powered VW bus... I think that'll do, given that they'll never see the light of day...
  16. Yep - Deep Forest was pretty special. I was trailing along in 5th just barely maintaining the gap to the four of you, ready to snaffle any free places, and thought I was out of luck until your last-lap penalty and Joe's bad shift on the run to the line. A very happy (and fortunate) podium-sitter Not sure what happened at Daytona - I ended up facing the wrong way in the infield on lap 1, but very possibly caused it as I had no idea there was anyone alongside me. I think I was still trying to turn TC on for the start, failed, and was then trying to drive and get the display back to the radar, so sorry if my lack of awareness took anyone else out. The Subaru wasn't quick enough there anyway.
  17. Get gold on all the license tests (but don’t worry too much about Spa in the wet as it’s ridiculously hard) Get gold on all the circuit experiences (but don’t worry about the ‘Ring for similar reasons) Set qualy times on the daily races and join in our unofficial time trials. Actually do some daily races (get your SR up so it’s not quite so much like the Wild West) Come and join us on Monday Nights. Not necessarily in that order, but there’s plenty of stuff to do once you’ve “finished” it.
  18. Just started playing this again for the faintly ridiculous reason that it’s included in the new PS+ thingie and I can play it without digging out the disc… Had my arse handed to me a few times, but went on to beat Phrike after a couple of goes (it all came flooding back) and then had my first co-op game with a random, which was really good. We both seemed to be keeping an eye on each other and saving guns and health for each other etc. I bet it’s a nightmare if you get paired with an idiot We got through to the 3rd boss (as far as I’d got previously) and…. died horribly. Nice change though.
  19. He’s “a good guy” and “should be running Europe” apparently. (from an interview in 2019: https://news.sky.com/story/amp/i-would-take-a-bullet-for-vladimir-putin-says-ex-f1-chief-bernie-ecclestone-11759373)
  20. Fretnoise

    F1 22

    That sounds good The boy got this on PC for his birthday and was playing last night with my old G29 setup. It feels weird, but I'm not sure if it's down to the differences between the G29 and my T300, or the game, Logi GHub, or what. It seemed to have a massive FFB deadzone straight ahead, with resistance only kicking in from about 10 degrees either side. Makes things like Eau Rouge / Raddillon really difficult as you don't steer much more than that all the way through. Looks pretty though
  21. I've been thinking of getting a new rim too. I've been periodically checking eBay and Facebook (ick) and so far the only conclusions I've made are: a) rims don't seem to go for cheap very often, and b) the used alcantara ones always look horrible - like someone has attacked it with a sander and then a heat gun. I'm thinking of the Open Wheel rim (this one) for our GT3 etc races, but I do like the look of the Sparco P310 too. The plasticky feel to the standard rim is the worst thing about the T300 I think. That and the annoying screwholes on the back where your fingers rest. Oh and the d-pad on mine is starting to miss the odd click here and there... Bigger radius will mean slightly lighter steering and slightly less intense feedback, I would think? Hoping it would be countered by the larger size just being more like the real thing. You could get a proper shifter too and start using that 3rd pedal?
  22. I like it. Don’t think I’ve driven it before - maybe briefly in Grand Prix Legends years ago. I found it really rewards the “slow in fast out” approach, and getting the power down early through the exits, especially in the last sector. The rollercoaster banked and flat out series of turns is excellent. I just about managed gold on the circuit experience after being stuck 0.011s off for about an hour.
  23. The Sport mode time trials give credit rewards now. 2 million for gold, or within 3% of the current leader 1 million for silver, within 5% of the leader 250k for bronze, within 10% I guess this means it’s worthwhile attacking them as soon as they come out, unless Kaz sends the heavies round to get his 2 million back when the best time gets beaten… Oh and the new time trial is in the new Suzuki Escudo, which you can borrow
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