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Everything posted by Aluco

  1. Nice work. That looks great. I get a lot of satisfaction from creating good maps. I recommend to everyone Dungeondraft, which you may have used for that. I am also a patron of Forgotten Adventures, which provide epic quantities of assets to build from. Another recommendation for those who like doing this sort of thing. Their tokens are good too.
  2. They can definitely be painted as any faction.
  3. I think there is also a gulf between depicting regressive attitudes in a campaign and subjecting a player's character to those attitudes, understanding that many players see their characters as extensions of themselves to some degree.
  4. Years ago, I collected a bunch of the Car Wars stuff, including this. I still have it all. Though all mixed up and packed down into a folder and an old cigar box. Nostalgia encourages me to keep it, despite my memories of actually playing it being that it rarely lived up to the promises it made. The mats would never fold out flat, the cardboard bits would shift easily in a breeze despite precision placement and movement being critical. The rules were all a lot harder work than you expected them to be. They also contained some funny abstractions. For example (and I am probably remembering this inaccurately): You can't commit suicide by shooting yourself in the head with a Magnum .44. The gun does 1 DMG. You have 2 HP. So it reduces you to 1 HP which means unconscious. When you wake up you get your HP back. Still, fond memories through rose tinted glasses.
  5. Another good expansion is the Inns and Cathedrals one. Like the rivers one, it is a simple addition. An Inn tile increases the value of a road, a cathedral tile increases the value of a city. There are loads of expansions, but the only ones I actually like are the ones that mix in simply with the basic set, like the above. All the stuff that adds extra counters and objectives etc. just ruins the games paired back elegance.
  6. Having played and enjoyed most of the original Time Stories stuff, we have a plan to try the new stuff. I will go into it with an open mind, but consider your experience when I do. Maybe one to borrow and try out.
  7. I can't help you there with that list but it makes me really want to play whatever you have planned. Sounds like it will be awesome. Keep us updated.
  8. I would be surprised if that box is worth less then £300. It looks to be in immaculate condition and if all the sprues are there and untouched you are in super rare territory. With the latest edition of Adeptus Titanicus where it is, al lot of the miniatures in that box are super popular for base decorations and the like. I bought some land raiders, rhinos and walls for just that purpose a while back. Probably paid a tenner for a couple of sprues worth, cut off and some badly painted.
  9. Also, the bit in that interview about exactly this sort of thing. YouTube just saying "do what the algorithm demands" and consequently, everything being the same shit.
  10. Don't undersell yourself on your own artistic input. You have established a clear and distinctive style for yourself that is a merit in itself. Your miniatures look like your miniatures, not like someone else's. And you style is amazing in its own right.
  11. The fine highlights on the scythe handles are surprisingly easy. I undercoat with Corax White spray. The handles are then painted with Gore Grunta Fur contrast paint. The highlights are picked out by running Cadian Fleshtone along them using the side of a size 1 brush. So I make sure there is not too much paint on the brush and rub the edges on the handles with the bit about halfway down from the tip. Some bits get a second pass of that. The plants that are not your common tufts are Sphagnum mosses that I pick up while walking in the woods. Just look at dry stone walls, or under trees on a walk out. You will soon start to notice the stuff. I try to pick it up when it is dry because I don't want it to go mouldy. I dry it out completely at home by just leaving it lying about. If you keep it in the dark it stays green, if you leave it in the light at fades to yellow. I stick it in place with superglue, which is important because it is really fragile. The superglue is absorbed by the stuff and then sets, making it tougher and preserving its colour to some extent, although it still fades to yellow in time. I love your Lady Olynder. I have that one in my pile of shame. I will get to it eventually.
  12. Beautiful stuff. A collection worthy of White Dwarf. Send them photos.
  13. Brilliant. Looking forward to it. I have not actually played in ages, just GMing.
  14. What Doctor Shark said. The edge highlighted one looks artificial.
  15. Have you considered transparent perspex bases that you can see the tiles through?
  16. I think it is one of the best games they do, but I would not recommend it for a 10 year old. It is much more dense and simulation like than most of their games. It feels to me like it specifically named at veterans rather than newcomers. There are a lot of rules. The models can be fiddly to assemble and most are big so take some painting. But if you do get into it it is great. Fab models, nice scenery, good game, interesting lore. Lots of options without going completely bonkers. If you are looking to try out something with a 10 year old though, maybe Kill Team or Warcry will suit you better.
  17. Reluctant as I am to give assholes traffic. What are you talking about here? I am curious enough to hold my nose and glance 'tween split fingers before nauseously checking out. Good alternative to that toxic exposure would be a description sufficient to put me off looking for real.
  18. Also, you might be able to get back issues, on an individual basis, directly from Hatchette. I picked up a few back issues of Mortal Realms that way. Some months after they were released too. Including some of the really popular ones. Don't take that for granted though. Pre-order is more guaranteed.
  19. I agree. Though my usual style is on the warmer side. I think the difference is that the sprays aimed at contrast paints have a smoother finish, so the contrast paints over them separate more than they do over the normal base sprays. More contrast is the result. The downside is the adherence is reduced, so handling can rub your contrast paints of the edges you touch. Handle lightly and minimally. Then varnish to protect your work. When it comes to the Wraithbone in a pot, I think it is one of GW's weaker paints. It has a funny consistency, watery and slick in a way that is less easy to handle than the near equivalents like Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull. I use it only for touch up where my contrast paints have spread too far. And even there I am unsure if it is the best way to get a result.
  20. Good choice for swift painting too. You can cover most of them quite easily and then focus on the fun stuff. Classic Method: Zandri Dust spray followed by a Seraphim Sepia wash is a solid start. Highlight with Ushabti Bone and then Screaming skull. Contrast Method (Super quick): Wraithbone spray. Skeleton Horde over that. (Maybe create a pot with a 1:1 mix of Skeleton Horde and Contrast Medium if you prefer a lighter bone shade). Then you can just spend your time on the armour and weapons which is more fun. And that is probably mostly where your colour choices will be your own. Don't forget to come and show us how you get on. I look forward to seeing what colours you choose.
  21. You are very good. And it is clear to see for everyone. But you see where you could be better. That is not a flaw but a strength. Chase it. It is the only way to live.
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