geldra

Yeah it’s an odd one but seems to be a common fault with that controller for some reason. that post recommends replacing them all on the good side too as they’ll probably fail in the near future.

Ohoh! Found this on another forum: “Found the problem. There is a bank of resistors connected in series on each board connected to the lever controls. When the levers are all the way up, it passes 0V, and when you drop it each notch, it completes a circuit and each notch you go down offers increasing resistance values. One or more of the resistors in the circuit has failed (open) causing the controller to output 0V no matter what position you place the lever. The throttle uses 390 Ohm 0805 surface mount resistors, the brake uses 560 Ohm 0805 surface mount resistors. Each board also has one 100 Ohm 0805 resistor. Size 1206 can also be used, but 0805 is the original component size. Check each resistor with a digital multimeter, failed ones will become readily apparent. Replace them with an equivalent value resistor and the controller will be operational again. Total cost for fully replacing all resistors with new ones: $9.83 (parts plus shipping from DigiKey). You can replace only the failed ones for mere pennies each, but I would not trust the remaining ones to keep working. Update: All the resistors were replaced and the controller is now fully functional.”

I don’t know if it is a mechanical contact issue as I can see the pins that are brushing against the pcb and they look identical to the other side that is working ok. I’ve tried pushing the lever closer to the pcb to see if it was a contact issue but it makes no difference.

Ok, have cleaned the contacts (I’ll need to remember where my multim is) and there’s no real change. Though it did register acceleration at point 2 (out of 14) though not consistently. Interestingly though, it doesn’t register point 1 of acceleration at notch 1 on the controller. Dunno what that might signify. But I need to check continuity on those resisters really.

I do have a multi. And some IPA (insert lame gag about cleaning it with beer here). I’ll have more of a thorough look this morning. I’ve had a look around places like Reddit etc and this does appear to be a fairly common issue though none of the threads have any documented solutions.

Does anyone have any experience with testing and replacing surface mounted resistors? Took a punt on an “untested” Densha Shinkansen controller for the PS2 (been lusting after once since playing the demo of the game that came with Densha de Go Final). It mostly works except for the accelerator lever doesn’t register anything past notch 1. Opening it up, the lever has a pcb with a fair few of the surface mounted resistors so I’m assuming one (or a few) are goosed.

Some absolute dogshit packaging from Simplygames on the Special Edish. Essentially a paper bag inside a carrier bag. It’s not a spoiler to say my copy is a little bit dinged.

Ripped from NintendoLife. Bonito Days looks like a pretty sweet Monkey Target (but expanded) tribute.

Man, I remember getting the Japanese release. I was beyond excited at getting this conversion. The bubble burst at the Name Entry screen (before even getting into the racing action) where the frame rate even there, with barely anything going on, was hot dog shit. The game itself was decent but I could never get over that disappointment.

Getting into Densha de Go quite a bit at the minute from playing the latest on Switch and PS4. Have decided to go right back to the start at the original Densha de Go on the PS1. It is absolutely rock solid in comparison to the latest versions.

Apologies, I realise the above post wasn’t exactly on topic. Just had a watch of gameplay footage of the Arlasoft version, it’s impressive stuff. Is it all just running on a standard C64? Could it be written to a cassette and played on actual hardware?

If anyone has a 25” Trinitron in decent condition (would like all flaps present) drop me a pm. On the lookout for something a little bigger than my 14”.

I seem to remember playing a version of Galaga on the C64 but it was dark blue sprites on a light blue background. Looked nothing like the arcade.

Yep, agreed with all the above. Great read. (Just to echo the “cups” bit being thoroughly depressing)

I picked up an OG ps1 recently but I’ve not got any (PAL) games to test with. But, am I right in thinking that if it plays CDs ok, then it’ll read games fine?