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rllmuk

Cocky

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  1. Paint a lot, enjoy yourself and don't worry about messing up. If you want to get more specific the best piece of advice I ever received was finish every model that you start. Finishing a model is the best skill any painter can have regardless of their ability.
  2. An ultrasonic cleaner is useful for cleaning airbrushes and will remove any hard to reach paint. I don't do it too often as @The Bag says airbrush cleaner normally does the trick, but when I leave paint in the cup or if I get a bad blockage putting the airbrush in the us cleaner makes the cleaning process less of a headache. I wouldn't get something that cheap though @Mikes unless someone has recommended it to you. So I've not been posting much of late as it's been a bad year. If it wasn't for that harry potter commission I'd probably be packing boxes for amazon. Since earning something is better than nothing I've been painting infinity models to sell on ebay for a bit less than I'd like. So far it's going okay as I've earned more money than I would have and also picked up a new client. Another benefit is that from all of the practice my quality/time ratio has bumped up. These are all technically what I call my gaming standard.
  3. Backed for the group. I really need to start painting more than one of your guys a year otherwise my unpainted collection will get out of control
  4. I emailed several companies about their paints years ago. Vallejo gave the most comprehensive response and clearly take the issue of animal cruelty seriously. From what I remember only a few of their artists paints which use traditional inorganic pigments have animal products in them and none of their paints have been tested on animals. Army painter said they probably were cruelty free, but didn't have all of the necessary paperwork from their suppliers. GW couldn't comment due to confidentiality clauses with their suppliers. Privateer press didn't reply, though I have recently learned their paints are manufactured in the UK by HMG Paints ltd who also make the coat d'arms paints so you might want to contact them if you want assurance. I'm pretty cynical about most things and especially when it comes to ethical behavior from businesses, but I would be surprised if it's revealed GW tested their contrast paints by injecting them into the eyeballs of rabbits. As for synthetics, I tested a lot of different brushes and even the best had problems with tip curl which make any kind of detailing work very difficult. I found that two brush blending is a good technique to use as it minimizes the inaccuracy of the tip which is how I painted most of the walking dead models and a couple of busts. If I didn't paint for money I would stick to synthetics as it's still possible to paint well using them it just takes longer sometimes a lot depending longer on the model.
  5. From what I understand the animal from which kolinsky sable comes from is some kind of weasel that lives in Siberia. The extreme cold of their environment is what results in their fur having the properties so desired by painters. Raising these animals in captivity results in lower quality fur. As you may know some of the largest temperature increases associated with climate change are happening within the arctic circle. I have yet to read anything about how this will impact the weasels, but I suspect in the long term things aren't looking good, and even if they are able to adapt to their new environment the kolinsky sable brush that we know of may well be harder to come by in future. I don't know which is the best ethical choice or even if there is one within the existing socio-economic structure (if only there was a snappier way of saying that). I don't think this hobby is in any way good for the environment. But compared to the horrendous shit that happens in the world the impact of the hobby is minor. On a related note the only certified cruelty free hobby paints (if such things can exist) that I know of are made vallejo.
  6. I did for a time, not any more though. The best I found were made by princeton specifically the size ones in the 3950 (better tip) and 4000 (firmer bristles) series. For larger sizes I'd recommend the 3050 series. W&N cotmans are okay too.
  7. So I painted more necromunda hired guns: These are probably my favorites: More photos on my website: https://opponenttheory.com/blog/2019/10/12/necromunda-hired-guns-part-2
  8. @Mikes you need more shading so I would work on that first. From what I remember bloody red, like most reds, is quite transparent and needs a lot of layers. There are a couple of tricks to speed up the process. The first is to add red ink to the paint to boost the color intensity. The second is to paint the highlighted area with sunny skin tone and then paint red over that.
  9. I've been thinking about doing a youtube series on painting a collection of models whether an army, box set or whatever. I probably won't since I'm lazy and need to earn money, but I have come up with at least one piece of advice. If there is any aspect of painting that's preventing you from finishing your models, change the way you paint. So if the prospect of spending 60 minutes doing lots of thin layers just to basecoat the model is off putting, use one or two thick layers or don't do a solid basecoat at all. There are other methods and styles out there and if you are prepared to be a little more creative you might find a more enjoyable way to paint. Some practical advice for basecoating: - shake your paints! a properly mixed paint is vital for maximum coverage. - don't thin your paints (too much). I like my paints to have a paste like consistency and have never had a problem with "obscuring the details". - use a big ol' brush. A big brush loaded with thick paint will make short work of even the biggest mini (just don't use a brand new expensive kolinsky sable). - choose you paints wisely. Paints vary in opacity, it's just the nature of the pigments, so sometimes it's better to choose a less ideal color that offers better coverage.
  10. I wouldn't bother with blending unless you are entering a competition. It's more important to focus on contrast and detail as these will make your models look more interesting to look at and have more impact on the table.
  11. The new models looks very cool @JoeK Coincidentally I recently finished my annual Joek model painting. I tried to do something different with the nmm and it didn't work out in a few places but overall the effect is quite nice.
  12. A new miniatures game based on the Marvel license is due out later this year. It's being released by a new company called Atomic Mass that would appear to be a sister company of FFG and made up of former Privateer Press staff. They will be made from hard plastic which makes them substantially more interesting to me than the KM superheroes so fingers crossed I'll pick up some new work from this. https://www.beastsofwar.com/featured/atomic-mass-marvel-crisis-protocol-miniatures-game/
  13. Maybe. I just wanted something different from the plain grey I normally do.
  14. Here are some infinity models I painted for myself. I was focusing on having fun mostly and using simple techniques to add detail and character. Pretty pleased over all considering how easy they were to paint compared to the other models I've done of late.
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