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Diy Jamma Test Rigs


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#61 Dandy_Sephy

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Posted 26 September 2005 - 03:22 PM

Is anyone willing to knock up a rig for me?
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#62 Antiriad2097

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Posted 26 September 2005 - 03:33 PM

DIY. There's realy not much to it, especially if you buy a ready ade wired harness (which I ended up doing after already buying a JAMMA edge connector).
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#63 Yod@

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Posted 26 September 2005 - 10:20 PM

I'm proud to admit that I've made precisely fuck all progress with my supergun - it still has no lid and loads of wires hanging out of it. :D

I have however amassed a grand total of 3 boards for it now though - Mortal Kombat rev 5.0 (the latest version), Mortal Kombat II rev 5.1 (no mention of v5.1 on the net, and it's not in MAME - as soon as I get hold of an EPROM programmer I'll dump the roms and submit them with a suitable driver to the MAMEDEV team, and replace my ROMs with the Challenger/Immortal ones), and an original non-suicide version of Golden Axe. :)

Here's my MK2 board - have to make up a set of power cables for the sound board:

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And here's Golden Axe with a JAMMA adapter I made up:

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If I can manage to also get hold of a Ghouls'n'Ghosts board and a Street Fighter 2 board then I'll die happy. :D
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#64 spaceyjase

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Posted 27 September 2005 - 09:40 AM

Is anyone willing to knock up a rig for me?

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95 + P&P and I'll "knock up a rig" for you :( But christ man, check the thread. Shopping list and all, fantastic.

That's wicked Yod@ although I hate the way you say "I'll make one up!" and magic a cable seemingly out of thin air :D

Guess what? I bought my camera to work, post the pictures I have yet forgot the lead to hook it up to the computer. The rig is looking sweeet from the right angle and like something out of a horror movie on the soldered side. I assume I can run it if I wire up the RGB lead tonight. I ain't got the controller ports in yet but I should be able to get a picture and make sure it works? :P
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#65 Yod@

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Posted 27 September 2005 - 10:23 AM

Yep - all you need as a bare minimum to test it out are the grounds, voltages, and the RGB/Sync/Ground video output. Looking forward to seeing the pics. :P
EDIT: You may also need 5 volts on SCART pins 8 and 16 to switch your TV into RGB mode, otherwise you might just get a black screen.
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#66 spaceyjase

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 09:01 AM

OK, I got it running... kind of :) This is when I started the other night:

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Followed by the scart leading, which I wired directly to the board (nice and long the cable, couldn't care less about setup but I can change it anyway):

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And here's the 'kind of' ;) The colours are fine, no rolling or anything BUT I do get these black lines across the screen which do move up and down a bit :ph34r:

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No idea what is causing that, except for my dodgy wiring? (No... can't be :P ). I checked the wires last night and everything seems to be wired to the right place but I will check again anyway. The other thing is that I did butcher a fully-wired scart lead but obviously the rest of the wires don't 'go' anywhere; would this cause a problem?

"Hmm, you seek Yod@"

Pretty damn exciting though. Need to wire up the speaker and joypad ports tonight. Shouldn't take long to do that as everything is ready to go. Switches next. I think I'll wire them straight up to the jamma connector though rather than to the board.
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#67 Yod@

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 09:12 AM

Sorry, forgot to reply to this the other day!

Not sure what your picture problem is, I haven't seen that yet on any of my boards. There shouldn't be anything wrong with modding a full-wired SCART lead and using only the necessary wires - just obviously make sure that none of the unused wires are shorting out or connected to anything that they shouldn't be.

I gather that some boards can be fussy about the exact voltage on the 5 volt supply (arcade PSUs have a control to increase or decrease the 5 volt supply slightly), but I've no idea if WRC is one of them.

Could be something basic like a grounding problem or a sync problem, but I assume you've probably checked your wiring again anyway.

Was the board sold to you as tested and working?
Congrats on getting this far with it anyway - I bet you can't wait to get the controls wired up! <_<
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#68 spaceyjase

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 09:45 AM

I know, I can't wait. Interestingly, the document doesn't tell you how to wire up a Neo Geo pad so I couldn't do anything last night except wire up a few switches and the sound (ace, btw). I'm not on the internet at home so it was kind of infuriating having to wait and get the pinout today, hook it up later. I can put credits in and start a game though <_<

Yep, board was tested and working. Only last night, I was kind of pissed that I couldn't see anything wrong with the lead so I isolated all of the other wires (in the scart head itself) to make sure they weren't shorting anything out and now I don't get a picture at all. I should have just left it :wacko: I then thought I'd just put them back where they were and the picture is still not right. It's so simple, I'm annoyed at myself 'cos I feel as though I've broke it. I was thinking that I could take them off the board and wire the video directly into a scart-block directly just to test it but I don't see why there would be anything wrong with what I've got now.

I'm going to move on and come back to it though. I'm going to get another board too, something cheap just so I have something else to test/play with :blink:
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#69 Yod@

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 10:21 AM

Don't worry, I've lost count of the amount of times I've made a stupid wiring error with SCART leads etc.
The trick is to try not to lose your patience. If you find yourself getting very frustrated with it, it's often a good idea to just set it aside and take a break for a bit. I can tell you from experience that very few problems actually get fixed when you're annoyed and/or tired.

One thing that just occurred to me - normal SCART-to-SCART leads actually have some of the wires crossed (i.e. composite video out goes to composite video in - pins 19-20). So if you just cut off one SCART plug and took the wire which *was* connected to pin 20 (composite video in) and wired that up to your JAMMA connector, you'll find that it's actually going to SCART pin 19 at the other end (composite video out). Obviously that won't work, so it might be worth double-checking that.

If you're getting no video picture at all, then I'd look at the SCART switching voltage on pins 8 & 16 first of all (it's unlikely that all 3 RGB connections have been messed up simultaneously). If you have 5 volts on pins 8 and 16, and a ground and even just one of the RGB connections then you should get a picture, even if there's no sync connected.

Good luck with it. <_<
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#70 spaceyjase

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 10:59 AM

Aye, I checked that mate by confirming which colour went where from the head of the lead to the bit I'd cut off. Simple but effective :wacko: I did make a mistake when I first wired it though, oops. The ground leads were all 'green' except for one, which was a lighter blue. Guess where I wired that? Straight onto video blue. I didn't think it was right as I then had an extra blue lead shortly before realising what I'd done <_<

It's weird; there is a picture there but 'incomplete'. Lots of black on the screen with some colour. Can you do me a favour and have a read of the video display options in the supergun document, if it isn't too much trouble... just to make sure that the description is OK like (clutching at straws but you never know...) I don't have +5 going to pin 8, just pin 16 like in the description but I can wire that up too. Video ground is wired to the ground rail (which I pulled from the first rail on the board; see image). The only thing that isn't wired is the video ground to the jamma connector. The reason I didn't do this is because it wasn't pre-wired. It did work (pictured above) so I left it as it was. Ahh, I'll figure it out 'cos I have obviously broke it. I might just play some games tonight instead :blink:

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Sorry to be a pain in the arse though, thanks for all your feedback. It is greatly appreciated!
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#71 Yod@

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 01:47 PM

I would wire the 5 volts to SCART pin 8 - doesn't do any harm, and there's a slim chance that it may fix your problem, some TVs can be *very* fussy about having these voltages present.

I don't see anything wrong with the details in the document - although I'm too lazy to bother with wiring up the separate R,G and B grounds, I just ignore those.

The fact that there's no video ground wired to the JAMMA connector *shouldn't* make any difference (all the grounds from the JAMMA connector, the SCART lead, and the PSU should all be linked together on that PCB anyway), but you never know - it's a bit of a coincidence that you're also getting video problems. I would try connecting it up if possible.

Sorry for all the vague replies, it's very difficult to troubleshoot things like this.
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#72 spaceyjase

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 01:58 PM

That's cool, I understand that. I'll do that, better safe than sorry. Thanks again.

More soon!
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#73 Antiriad2097

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Posted 30 September 2005 - 02:01 PM

My PCB's arrived yesterday. Picked up Golfing Greats at 15 just for testing. Won't matter if I screw it up, 15 isn't a great loss and if I destroy the board its not r@re or anything so nobody'll miss it. And at that price if it works I should be able to sell it on without much loss.

Bought Bank Panic for proper playing. It was reasonably priced at 35 and its a game I really enjoy. A nice introduction. I'm a bit in awe of it though - its hard to believe I actually have a genuine Sega arcade system in my hands. I'd have never dared dream that could be true as a kid ;)

Not had time to wire up the loom yet, been busy with DIY and it has to be finished before my wife gets home ;)
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#74 Willei

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Posted 30 September 2005 - 10:44 PM

So where do you lot get your PCBs from then? I could easilly grab some piece of crap game off ebay, but once I've made the JAMMA rig I'll actually want a game worth playing!

What are the chances of me finding something like Batrider without paying ultra dollar? More to the point, where should I be looking?
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#75 super_quincy

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Posted 30 September 2005 - 10:54 PM

Keep in mind Will, that Batrider will need a vertical orientated monitor (or a TV on its side)
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#76 Willei

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Posted 30 September 2005 - 11:11 PM

Heh, that's no problem since I have a couple of TVs are on their side pretty often without any long term issues.

Thinking about it, how does it output the display of a vertical game? Does it just output the standard resolution and let the operator worry about the orientation of their screen, or do you need to do some extra faffing to make it work properly?
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#77 Yod@

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Posted 01 October 2005 - 12:22 AM

If it's a vertical game then the video will be displayed in that way - you'll have no control over it. So you'll either need a 'tated monitor, or else you'll need to mod the controls so as to play the game as side-scrolling (wouldn't bother with modding the controls, personally).

There are always plenty of boards available on the UK and US eBay sites, but I'm getting really fucked off with eBay sellers now - generally people used to be very helpful with regards to sorting out postage/marking down for customs/answering queries, but I've had some dealings recently with a few arseholes.
IMHO, if anyone is selling a board as "untested" then I'd treat it as faulty.
Even if someone says a board is tested and working, they'll almost certainly still have a disclaimer saying that they won't accept returns anyway (which is fair enough I guess, since anybody could buy a working board and then smoke it by connecting it up incorrectly).

The killercabs.com and shmups.com forums have Trading folders - you'll probably find that the more popular shooters will show up fairly regularly there if you're keen to avoid eBay.
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#78 Antiriad2097

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Posted 01 October 2005 - 12:40 AM

There's the UKVAC mailing list as well. Not entirely sales oriented, but subscribing to it will get you familiar with some of the local names etc and you can always make a request if there's something particular you want. Tbh I bought mine fairly blind from there.
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#79 LaParka

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Posted 01 October 2005 - 01:36 PM

I've been wanting to make one of these for ages. You might just push me over the edge and make me get my backside in gear. I've had a 4-slot MVS board I can't get rid of so I think its a sign.

I'm going to be acculmulating the parts over the coming weeks with a view to build the thing over the christmas break from Uni.

Then to start the search for a Donpachi PCB. Does anyone know how much these roughly go for? (not a full kit though ;) )
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#80 Dandy_Sephy

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Posted 01 October 2005 - 01:41 PM

I've had a 4-slot MVS board I can't get rid of

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I find that difficult to belive. I thought they were very sought after?
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#81 LaParka

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Posted 01 October 2005 - 01:45 PM

I've had it on eGay three times, advertised it on NG.com, here and NTSC-uk. and nothing. I'll probably keep it now - unless some wants it ;)
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#82 CurryKitten

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Posted 01 October 2005 - 10:10 PM

There are always plenty of boards available on the UK and US eBay sites, but I'm getting really fucked off with eBay sellers now - generally people used to be very helpful with regards to sorting out postage/marking down for customs/answering queries, but I've had some dealings recently with a few arseholes.
IMHO, if anyone is selling a board as "untested" then I'd treat it as faulty.
Even if someone says a board is tested and working, they'll almost certainly still have a disclaimer saying that they won't accept returns anyway (which is fair enough I guess, since anybody could buy a working board and then smoke it by connecting it up incorrectly).

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My cheapo World cup 90 board (6) is faulty. The second joystick button registers as stuck down. For ages I thought it was my wiring, but then after unsoldering bits so it couldn't possibly be that I decided it wasn't me after all.

A really close inspection of the board revealed a chip with a break in one of the legs. An attempt by me to fic this was interesting, as it didn't resolve the stuck button, but did make all the spirtes appear almost upside down. Almost because the legs and body were actually the right way up, but now the top half og the body is on the bottom of the players, and the legs sit on top running along. Most weird.

Oh well, it'll be an interesting thing to try and fix up, but I am getting even lower on time these days - who knows when I'll get to it.
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#83 LaParka

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Posted 02 October 2005 - 03:24 PM

Ok, i'm starting my shopping list with a few bits and pieces.

PSU - how much should I be paying for one of these and whats the best voltage to get?
Jamma connector - 2X28 1.40
Jamma loom - 15 (is this a good price)

Hows this to begin with?

Anyone found any decent cases for their test rigs?
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#84 roberthazelby

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Posted 02 October 2005 - 06:53 PM

I've had it on eGay three times, advertised it on NG.com, here and NTSC-uk. and nothing. I'll probably keep it now - unless some wants it  :D

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Depends on how much you're looking for.

I've got a 4-slot cab, and spares are always nice to have. However, I'm not sure if I'll be keeping it for a huge amount of time as I'm more into my classics.

Rob
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#85 Antiriad2097

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Posted 02 October 2005 - 08:17 PM

Ok, i'm starting my shopping list with a few bits and pieces.

PSU - how much should I be paying for one of these and whats the best voltage to get?
Jamma connector - 2X28 1.40
Jamma loom - 15 (is this a good price)

Hows this to begin with?

Anyone found any decent cases for their test rigs?

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All you need is a bog standard PC PSU, doesn't need to be a high rated one so any old one will do. No old 486's or Pentiums lying around? New, it shouldn't cost you more than 20 for a decent one, probably a good bit less as most of the 'new' new ones are higher rated so there's not so much demand for the low rated ones.

You won't need both of those Jamma things. The loom is just the connector already wired up to save you a bit of soldering. Those prices are about the same as I paid, seems to be the going rate (I ended up with both as I bought a loose connector before bidding on a fully wired one - didn't want to risk having neither available).
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#86 LaParka

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Posted 02 October 2005 - 08:17 PM

Aren't Neo-Geo games classics :o
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#87 spaceyjase

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Posted 03 October 2005 - 08:38 AM

Good to see some more posters! :lol:

I got my 'test' board of eBay (from 'theretrogamer!', seemed to have a few PCBs at the time) although it is a game I wanted anyway, no home conversions as far as I know (and superior to the Neo Geo 'Drift Out', imho). I'm after Heavy Unit at the minute 'cos MAME doesn't support it (last time I checked) and, while the PC Engine version is nice (and very close to the arcade), it lacks that... something? The benefit of a Supergun becomes ever so clearer. An MVS board is always an option as the carts seem plentiful in supply.

VGI have some boards, last I checked. A bit on the expensive side though but if you're desperate..... :lol:

So, I fix the SCART lead (Yod@, I owe you a pint) and wired the credit and start buttons up to the 'gun (on a temporary bit of card!)

Just got to do the controller ports now :lol:

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Oh, and have a rethink about a case 'cos the PSU is just a tad to big for the box I had in mind :lol:
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#88 Yod@

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Posted 03 October 2005 - 07:49 PM

So, I fix the SCART lead (Yod@, I owe you a pint) and wired the credit and start buttons up to the 'gun (on a temporary bit of card!)

Just got to do the controller ports now :blink:

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Haha, how did you fix the SCART lead?

And I assume you're going to use normal joysticks for the WRC controls? (I looked up the board dipswitches - you can set it to use digital joysticks, or a potentiometer wheel, or an optical wheel).
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#89 spaceyjase

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Posted 04 October 2005 - 08:43 AM

I wired up the ground lead and put +5v to pin 8, like you said; works fine now although if I wiggle the board around a bit the picture goes funny, damn my soldering :lol: I needs a case so I can fix stuff without my shit soldering giving way and wires coming off the board left right and centre. Ahem. Not bad for my first attempt though, just need to 'finish' it and then I can give it a proper go, start up my eBay business and get rich ;)

Got the P1 controls wired up and changed the dip switches so I can play it properly. Woo!

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Anybody else made any progress?
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#90 Yod@

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Posted 04 October 2005 - 09:20 AM

Nice one, I call that a result. :lol:
I see you've fallen into the same trap that I did though - now that your rig is playable, it means that it'll take you anywhere from 6 months to the rest of your life to actually finish it. ;)

When I get time, I swear I'm going to make a concerted effort to finish adding my volume controls so I can put the damn thing together properly.
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